20 sparkling and champagnes

Six of Australia’s eight best sparkling wines are from Tasmania. Of the remaining two, one is destined to move there.

 

For the Top 100 list I use a 100-point scoring system: here’s how it works:

97-99: Exceptional. Wines that have won major trophies in important wine shows, or are of that standard.

95-96: Outstanding. Wines of gold medal standard, usually with a great pedigree.

94: Wines on the cusp of gold medal status, virtually indistinguishable from those receiving 95 points.

90-93: Highly recommended. Wines of great quality, style and character, and worthy of a place in any cellar.

89: Recommended. Wines on the cusp of silver medal standard, the difference purely a judgment call.

86-88: Wines of bronze medal standard: well produced, flavoursome, usually not requiring cellaring.

AUSTRALIAN SPARKLING

Yarra Burn Pinot Noir Chardonnay Rosé 2007

Part sourced from Yarra Valley, the rest from elsewhere in Victoria. The price has risen from $19.99 since its initial release but so has its complexity. Salmon hued, it has a spicy, floral gingerbread bouquet and a rich, red fruits and spices reflecting its 66+% pinot noir base. Its length and freshness can’t be faulted.

94 points, $24.99

cork, 12.5% alc

yarraburn.com.au

House of Arras A by Arras Premium Cuvée NV

Has it all: balance, life, complexity, length; dances the line between supple richness and minerality. 100% Tasmanian, 59% pinot noir, 33% chardonnay, 8% pinot meunier aged 3+ years on tirage, 6 months on cork. Natural acidity helps deliver a particularly good finish and aftertaste of this slimmed-down version of Arras.

94 points, $29.99

cork, 12.5% alc

houseofarras.com.au

Pirie Traditional Method NV

100% Tasmanian, 55% chardonnay, 45% pinot noir, 5% fermented in French puncheons, on tirage 4½ years. Balances line and length, freshness and complexity to perfection, with a bewitching array of white flowers, almond, quince and citrus, the finish long and precise. Deserves its trophy and six gold medals from major shows.

96 points, $31.99

cork, 12.5% alc

brownbrothers.com.au

Bay of Fires Tasmanian Cuvée Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut NV

Nine years on tirage is extraordinary, Krug-like in its lengthy elevage and giving the wine the depth and complexity of first-class champagne. Has bready/yeasty/nutty aromas and flavours, but holds its citrus and green apple fruit line very well.

94 points, $34.99

cork, 12.5% alc

bayoffireswines.com.au

Clover Hill Tasmanian Cuvée Methode Traditionelle Rosé NV

A delicious rosé, with vibrant rose petal, watermelon and spice aromas. 54% chardonnay, 43% pinot noir, 3% pinot meunier. Over two years on tirage, the base wine taken through partial mlf. Its freshness and drive, and seemingly low dosage, gives a pleasingly dry, lingering aftertaste.

94 points, $35

cork, 12.5% alc

cloverhillwines.com.au

Brown Brothers Patricia King Valley Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut 2010

From high-altitude Whitlands Vineyard, it spent five years on tirage, developing its complex bouquet of lemon and brioche, the elegant and very long palate with flavours of nougat, lemon curd and almond. Skilled understatement has resulted in a wine of exceptional balance.

95 points, $47

cork, 12.5% alc

brownbrothers.com.au

House of Arras Brut Elite Cuvée No. 801 NV

Stands apart from most Arras wines, finer and more elegant, less rich and generous, yet superbly balanced. 100% Tasmanian, 57% pinot noir, 45% chardonnay predominantly from ’08, with total mlf before tirage. Notes of mineral and gunflint meet nougat, brioche and almond halfway, ensuring exquisite balance.

95 points, $49.99

cork, 12.5% alc

houseofarras.com.au

House of Arras Grand Vintage 2007

Arras style at its towering best, with layer-upon-layer of complexity ex brioche, toast, flint, white peach and apple. 100% Tasmanian, 77% chardonnay, 23% pinot noir, gleaming straw-green hue, and very, very complex. Although it spent more than eight years on tirage, the mouthfeel suggests this exceptional wine has time to go.

97 points, $76.99

cork, 12.5% alc

houseofarras.com.au

CHAMPAGNE

NV Vve Fourny & Fils Blanc de Blancs Brut Vertus Premier Cru

Created from three consecutive vintages plus 20% older reserve wine, all chardonnay; more than 30 months on tirage, the dosage 6g/l. Straw-gold, it has a flowery bouquet, then a powerful and generous palate, with a mix of Meyer lemon and biscuity notes on the very long and dry, yet vibrant, finish.

94 points, $76.70

cork, 12% alc

debortoli.com.au

NV Pol Roger Brut Reserve

A roughly equal blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, plus 25% reserve wines. This champagne has 150 blend components, with 48 months on tirage. In the heart of Pol style, crystal clear and poised, flowing evenly yet with drive and depth to its chalky/ minerally/citrussy journey through to the fresh finish and lingering aftertaste.

94 points, $85

cork, 12.5% alc

negociantsaustralia.com

2008 Veuve Clicquot Vintage

The clear bargain of all the champagnes tasted this year, reflecting the great vintage and the vinification revolution by chief winemaker Dominique Demarville. Brioche, nutty oak and peach blossom all whisper in the spring breeze of the bouquet before the stone and citrus fruits of the vibrant palate rise to a crescendo on the finish.

96 points, $99.99

cork, 12% alc

moet-hennessycollection.com.au

NV Jacquesson Cuvée No 739 Extra Brut

57% chardonnay, 21% pinot noir and 22% pinot meunier, its base year of 2011 contributing 69%, reserve wines 31% – all detailed on the back label. Given the very wet ’11 vintage, this has no business being as good as it is. Its almond, citrus and minerally notes have extreme length, as unexpected as it is welcome.

94 points, $115

cork, 12% alc

cellarhand.com.au

2009 Vve Fourny & Fils Monts de Vertus Premier Cru Extra Brut

The motto is one family, one clos, one premier cru. This wine spent six years on tirage, with a very low dosage of 3g/l. It has a dramatic, high‑intensity opening, with fresh, lifted brioche, lime and lemon floral notes. Balance and length are equally impressive, the lingering minerally finish exemplary.

96 points, $118.75

cork, 12% alc

debortoli.com.au

2005 Charles Heidsieck Millesime Vintage Brut

60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. In classic Charles style, rich, plush and generous after nine years on lees. It is gloriously uninhibited, with a complex array of alluring ripe fruits and spices, its acidity and dosage playing hide and seek. It’s as fresh as a daisy now; detractors of the ’05 vintage should be reminded of the 1959 vintage.

95 points, $139.95

cork, 12% alc

robertoatley.com.au

NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

From the five grand crus of the Côte des Blancs, the base wine from 2009 (75%), 25% reserve wines from a multi-vintage blend. Finely detailed, elegant wine. Intense yet fine bouquet, citrus blossom setting the scene for the tightly wound palate, its length and finesse built around a core of minerally acidity.

95 points, $150

cork, 12% alc

domainewineshippers.com.au

2006 Pol Roger Rosé Brut

It’s strange that Billecart, famed for its rosé, should swap places with Pol Roger, famed for its blanc de blancs. The depth of colour is unusual but the fragrance and perfume of the spicy fraises du bois of the bouquet sets the scene for a complex palate that builds layers of spices and red fruits, fresh acidity underpinning the long, zesty finish.

96 points, $150

cork, 12.5% alc

negociantsaustralia.com

2008 Pierre Gimonnet Special Club Millesime de Collection Blanc de Blancs

This is the best wine made each year from the 28ha estate (12ha grand crus). Tyson Stelzer says it is “the best value champagne I have tasted in the past five years”. It has exhilarating drive, intensity and power to its citrus and mineral chalkiness, the length exceptional.

97 points, $165

cork, 12.5% alc

negociantsaustralia.com

2006 Dom Perignon Vintage Brut

Most vintages of Dom are newborn when first released, forcing you to search for the wine to be. Here the fresh, lifted florals, brioche and almonds burst from the glass at first sniff. Despite its eloquence, the key words remain delicate, detail and freshness, the vibrancy of the palate running as a clear stream from start to finish.

98 points, $260.99

cork, 12.5% alc

moet-hennessycollection.com.au

2002 Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millesime

One of the greatest vintages of the past 25 years, producing wines of rare longevity and harmony. This is 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir, its dosage of 11g/l justified by the high acidity of the vintage. It is spectacularly fresh, with white flower/citrus blossom aromas feeding into the perfectly balanced and harmonious palate.

97 points, $299.95

cork, 12% alc

robertoatley.com.au

2000 Duval- Leroy Femme de Champagne

A wild vintage produced some great, long-lived wines typified by this blend of 95% chardonnay and 5% pinot noir. Roasted almonds and high-toned florals set the path for a palate with nuances of buttered toast and honey before the citrussy acidity sweeps in on the expansive harmony of the finish and aftertaste.

97 points, $325

cork, 12.5% alc

redandwhite.com.au

66 Australian sparkling submitted

Six of the eight wines come from Tasmania, and one of the remaining two – Brown Brothers Patricia – is destined to move there after Brown Brothers sold its Whitlands Vineyard to Domain Chandon, having previously acquired Tamar Ridge.

68 Champagne submitted

At the big end of town, the surprise is the 2008 Veuve Clicquot Vintage, a great wine from a great vintage selling for $99.99. The 2006 Dom Perignon, a wine of shimmering beauty, may trigger a credit card meltdown but hey, life is short.

The best of the rest:

Teusner MC Barossa Valley Sparkling

Shiraz 2009 94, $55

Leasingham Classic Clare Sparkling

Shiraz 2006 94, $68

House of Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged

2002 95, $150

Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV 91, $50

Pierre Gimonnet Cuvée Cuis 1er Cru

Brut Blanc de Blancs NV 94, $75

Vve Fourny & Fils Grande Reserve Brut

Vertus Premier Cru NV 94, $77

Taittinger Cuvée Prestige NV 94, $80

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage

Brut 2008 94, $120

Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston

Churchill 2004 96, $320