Haircare is the next beauty boom

Haircare has become the new skincare as customers seek out luxe, holistic and ‘clean’ solutions.

Sam McKnight tends to a model's hair backstage.

In a sales call to analyse its 2022 results, L’Oreal chief executive Nicolas Hieronimus noted that a major contributor to its sales growth was the idea that “haircare is the new skincare”.

“Haircare, which we grew at 12 per cent, well above the market, has become the new skincare. We see longer hair, more diverse types of hair. And great hair is increasingly a sign of health,” he told analysts. It’s a view shared by MECCA head of category (hair, body & fragrance) Sharon Neale.

Neale says hair is the fastest-growing category at MECCA, “and the next frontier of growth for prestige beauty”. “Within the category, treatments (notably scalp care and bond-building treatments) as well as styling products can be seen as the catalysts for this growth,” she says.

Part of the growth, says Neale, can also be attributed to changed attitudes (and skill sets) as a result of the pandemic.

“(W)e’ve seen customers care for their hair in a whole new way. Throughout Covid-19, at-home hair treatments and multi-stepped routines replaced the professional service our customers would receive at the salons, meaning customers took it upon themselves to gain the knowledge of ingredients and products,” she says.

Social media has boosted a DIY culture too with customers becoming more aware of the once mysterious ingredients in haircare.

“Social media and user-generated content in the beauty space played a big role in empowering customers to take charge of their hair routines to achieve professional results at home (the phrase ‘hair journey’ has six billion views on TikTok alone!). This content … has also been significant in driving awareness for the formulations of haircare – knowledge that was previously reserved for professionals,” says Neale.

This has also meant an increased focus on both “investment” products and “clean” haircare (the somewhat murky catch-all for products that eschew certain ingredients considered harmful as well as vegan and/or organic ranges).

Best-sellers at MECCA include Briogeo, Gisou, Sam McKnight and Necessaire. As reported in The Business of Fashion, in 2021 sales of prestige haircare grew 32 per cent to $US2.6bn and predicted the category would double in size over the next two years. “It is because of this that we are seeing a trend similar to … skincare … over the past 10 years, which put a real focus on ingredients (both beneficial and harmful),” says Neale.

Vincent Noble, a hairdresser and owner of top Sydney salon Headcase Hair, believes in using haircare brands with less harmful ingredients.

“The professional hair colouring range we use in the salon is Original Mineral because it is much less toxic, as they don’t use the most harmful ingredients … This is better for the clients and better for the hairdressers,” he says, noting this brand is formulated without ammonia, paraphenylenediamine (PPD) and resorcinol.

Neale says Australians are particularly primed to take good care of their hair given our harsh climate and tendency to spend hot summer days submerged in chlorine or salt water. She also says people are taking a more holistic approach to haircare, noting scalp care is another growth category.

“It’s not a surprise that the sun in Australia can have detrimental effects (on) our hair, just as it does to our skin,” she explains. “Again following the trends of the skincare category, customers are becoming more aware of the impact … on their hair, so products and ingredients that can help counteract the harsh effects of the sun and heat exposure have been in high demand. In addition … scalp health is more important in our climate than ever – think of your scalp as an extension of the skin on your face.”

British hairdresser Sam McKnight, who famously tended to the tresses of the late Princess Diana among many high-profile celebrities, launched his own haircare range, Hair by Sam McKnight in 2022. The reaction to his products, which are formulated with botanicals and McKnight’s 40-plus years of hair know-how, he says, has been incredible.

After-all, as Phoebe Waller-Bridge so famously said in Fleabag, hair is everything.

Protecting your hair in summer

“Keep it hydrated where it needs it, protect it from the sun and cleanse hair after being in salt or chlorinated water.” – Sam McKnight, founder of Hair, by Sam McKnight

“A haircut is the best thing you can do followed by hydrating and repairing treatments (Virtue Recovery range is really great!). Take it easy on hot styling tools and next time you go to the beach use a UV protection spray.” – Vincent Noble, hairdresser and Headcase Hairco-founder

“The summer is a great time to incorporate scalp care into your routine. Hot weather often increases sweat and oil production on the scalp, leading to increased follicle congestion. Similarly, sun exposure can be extremely … damaging to the hair. Our go-to summer routine starts by cleansing once a week with our cult favourite Scalp Revival™ Micro-Exfoliating Scalp Shampoo. It’s formulated with Binchotan charcoal to remove product build-up and impurities, and coconut oil to soothe and moisturise the scalp. This scrub is ideal for all scalp and hair types … Follow with our award-winning Don’t Despair, Repair™ Deep Conditioning Mask to help restore moisture and rebalance protein levels in all hair types … crucial for warding off breakage.” – Nancy Twine, founder and CEO of Briogeo