Reichsrat von Buhl, Wagner Stempel rieslings to the rescue

Four ways of pleasing your palate without emptying your wallet.

Four ways of pleasing your palate without emptying your wallet.

Ah, the penury of February. A time when the kids go back to school and the bills flood in like a financial tsunami. When cashflows consist of a raging torrent out and seemingly a mere trickle in. Such straitened circumstances present a challenge for those of us committed to the continued enjoyment of good wine.

Do not fear. Deliverance is available via the following selection. All give oodles of pleasure and satisfaction, way in excess of their relatively modest price tags. Responsible consumption of any of these might just help steady the hand when writing seemingly endless cheques (or punching out internet bank transfers). [e-mail]

2015 Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling (Trocken), $29

Former Bollinger chef de cave Mathieu Kaufman jumped the border fence to take the reins at this historic German domain. He has implemented many changes in the winemaking and cellar practices — which, judging by this beauty, are all for the better. Pale lemon colour (notably different to the following wine). The aromas are essentially fresh, pure grapefruit and lime. The palate features these racy citrus characters with background mineral notes. This has great tension from the tongue tingling Limey acidity. finishing long, grippy and bone dry. Buy and drink alongside the Wagner and compare and enjoy the differences in styles and regions. bibendum.com.au

2015 Wagner Stempel Riesling (Trocken) Gutswein, $34

Daniel Wagner is known in Germany as Mr Riesling. It’s a richly deserved sobriquet. His
wines are steel and barrel
fermented and Daniel says 2015 is his “best vintage ever”, which brooks no argument from me, given the outstanding quality of this wine. A brilliant ripe lemon colour, this still shows a little residual CO2 of its freshness and youth. The bouquet is a real snoot full of beauty, with notes of lemon curd, honey, lime, acacia, all with a spring in their step. The palate of this Wagner is positively operatic: powerful attack on entry with zingy, pulpy fruit characters giving real texture and mouthfeel. The lip-smacking acidity is sensational in keeping the body of flavours trim, taut and terrific. Long, fresh, exhilarating. I love it. Encore! heartandsoil.com.au

2015 Rhone
by Roger Sabon, $27

Roger Sabon has produced many legendary (and highly priced) wines since establishing his Chateauneuf domain in 1952. This fashionably branded Cotes du Rhone delivers style and satisfaction way beyond its humble appellation and price tag. Predominantly grenache with splashes of carignan and syrah, this is striking for its elegance and completeness. Complex, suave aromas and plum and kirsch flavours with background notes of Provencal herbs. This displays all the beauty of the 2015 vintage in the southern Rhone with none of the heat or potential alcohol excess. Superior to many Chateauneufs and a bargain at this price. Fill your boots. Euanmckay.com.au

2015 Nerocapitano
Lamoresca, $35

An 11ha farm (organic) in central Sicily produces four different wines from just 4ha of vines. This is 100 per cent frappato, a native Sicilian variety that shares some DNA with sangiovese. The nose starts out with floral and aromatic small red berry top notes, and then the herbal background kicks in over bass notes of long aged meat. The palate has the shape and weight of a light to medium-bodied wine, with red berry flavours, more herbs and meatiness, plus a sensation of warm minerality, all lending savour and cut. Really quite long and with a beguiling aftertaste. This is sexy in a kinky sort of way, and was perhaps even better 48 hours after opening, when some delicious cherry characters had emerged. Had this with veal sausages from Donati’s. #win. mondoimports.com.au