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Harvest yield, intensity defy predictions of summer heatstroke

Vintners are reporting good yields and quality after fears the harvest would suffer in the heat.

3/3/16 Steve Webber is the chief winemaker at Di Bortoli wines near Yarra Glen where they are harvesting. Aaron Francis/The Australian
3/3/16 Steve Webber is the chief winemaker at Di Bortoli wines near Yarra Glen where they are harvesting. Aaron Francis/The Australian

Predictions that Australia’s long run of top-quality vintage would wither in the heat this season have failed to ­materialise and grape growers are reporting solid yields and above -average quality.

Despite a compressed harvest, growers across the country are breathing a sigh of relief as crops generally appear to have survived severe weather, from extreme heat in South Australia, dryness in Victoria, soaking rain in the NSW Hunter Valley and history-making bushfires in Tasmania.

Experts and vintners agree clim­ate change is affecting the timing and length of harvest.

“Harvest is early again this year but that is consistent with what we are seeing every year,” Winemakers Federation of Australia chief executive Paul Evans said. He said the earlier harvest had only slightly affected yield levels and that the quality of the fruit had surpassed expectations.

“There were concerns early on in the season because of the expected heat in summer,” he said.

“But circumstances have turned back in favour of winemakers. Growers are reporting much more positively than they were at the beginning of the growing season. There was a real worry.

“Yield is within the average band of the last five years … but it’s the quality that has surprised everyone because of those earlier concerns.”

In the Yarra Valley, De Bortoli Wines chief winemaker Steve Webber confirmed the harvest was earlier again as grapes continued to do “unexpected things”.

“Shiraz has surprised everyone with how early it’s been,” he said.

“That’s caused difficulty because you’ve usually got a week between pinot finishing and shiraz coming. Now it’s a mad rush to get everything in.”

After a hot start, conditions in South Australia optimised during January to produce highly flavoured varieties among top-end grapes. Water prices have contributed to general flavour intensity as it has been used sparingly.

Yields in the Hunter Valley are down, as surprise rain soaked most of the region early in the season, but a dry February helped growers recover to salvage quality.

Victorian yields are variable due to variable rain and extreme heat. Tasmanian winemakers avoided the feared smoke taint after the island state was ravaged by its hottest summer in decades and worst bushfires in history.

Charles Sturt University viticulture professor Chris Steel said warmer weather was producing higher sugar levels in the grapes, leading to higher alcohol content.

“That’s not necessarily a good thing, because you get a masking of the desirable flavours,” he said.

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Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/food-wine/wine/harvest-yield-intensity-defy-predictions-of-summer-heatstroke/news-story/b223538f8a84178e6933c38d8f10c4d3