Melbourne’s Bang Bang is same, same as Thai but different

There’s no cohesive theme at Bang Bang, yet it all works together, handsomely, re-energising a proud heritage space.

The set-up at Melbourne's Bang Bang restaurant shows shows clarity of thought and maturity. Photo supplied.

You nip out on a Monday evening to grab a quick, healthy bite, avoid reality TV nonsense and be home in time for Four Corners and the sometimes uncomfortable Media Watch. And whatta ya get? Yes, at Bang Bang, we find a full crew and cast shooting an episode of The Block. Or The House. Or maybe The Blouse. Anyway, there are cameras, and sound men, and dudes in caps and assistants with laptops everywhere, but we stay anyway. We’re here, the place is big enough for us all and there are plenty of options for avoiding the cameras: high tables; the bar; a particularly handsome, long and ceramic-tiled communal table; a little love nook; and an ­indoors/outdoors dining space down the back with zip-up plastic panels and heating, for maximum utility. This place will go off in summer. And like most things the owners have done (think Wye General Store, Boatbuilders Yard), it’s all done with an eye for rule-breaking ­interior ­design. There’s no cohesive theme, yet it all works together, handsomely, re-energising a proud red-brick heritage space. Bang Bang is a fun place to be.

The Pitch: All-day eating and drinking, be that coffee in the morning, wine at lunch or a Basil Cucumber Smash (Plymouth gin, pineapple juice, lime, Thai basil and cucumber) to help you get over a crappy day at the office. That herb is a clue, of course.

The reality: As you’d hope of operators with considerable ­experience, this, their most food-focused venue yet, shows clarity of thought and maturity. The menu makes sense and works. Snacks. Small shares. Large shares. Sides. Dessert. And a brief list titled ­“enfants” that is most assuredly not terrible: crispy chicken with coleslaw; lamb bao burger; kid’s fried rice. It says a lot about the all-day stroller in the morning, Uber at night nature of the venue. We found staff pleasant and eager. The guy who took my unfinished beer was a little too eager.

The cuisine: I think Longrain in Sydney — open nearly 18 years — sufficiently pioneered and established a certain kind of modern Thai-inflected eating and drinking style for the adjective “Longrain-ish” to be both valid and, for Bang Bang, applicable. Drinks with Asian notes, a menu with a Thai core, and pan-Asian annular rings. But nothing anywhere that brands the restaurant “Thai”. Too smart for that. But for those who care about such matters, the head chef is a graduate of Longrain Melbourne. And it shows.

Highlights: Som tam, although they don’t call it that, sensibly. Here, from the Small Shares list, it’s “papaya & kohlrabi slaw” but that list of ingredients gives it away as a slightly Westernised version of northern Thailand’s favourite salad and it is a barely compromised gem. Hot, sour, perhaps not quite salty enough but not too sweet either. I liked. I suffered next day. And stir-fried soft shell crab, added to a red curry with baby eggplants, green peppercorns, snake beans and a rich, slightly coconutty gravy shows similar poise. Restraint and power in equal measure, with good produce and very satisfying flavours. Scrambled tofu with avocado and black vinegar, lots of herbs (mint, mainly), cashew and sesame seed is more Chinese than anything else. Who cares? It’s sweet and complex, light and delicious.

Lowlights: BB’s version of betel leaves — with confit duck and Thai-ish condiments — is pretty tame.

Will I need a food dictionary: Doubtful; the menu is well ­expressed, using familiar vocab.

The damage: Very reasonable.

In summary: Fun, fast, fairly fine and relatively frugal.