Wine deals on top-class reds from Kilikanoon, Leogate, Zilzie and Allegiance due to China trade war

China’s war on sensational Australian reds defies logic but here’s an opportunity to help some of our best five-star wineries by accepting a generous offer.

Examples of what Chinese drinkers are missing out on.

This is a story of four excellent reds from high-quality winemakers who’ve been caught in the crosshairs of a fight that has nothing to do with them.

As regular readers of this column know, the Australian wine industry is still reeling from the China trade spat, with producers being forced to sell good wines at prices far lower than their worth.

Even winemakers who were careful to balance their export portfolio and not put all their eggs in the fast-growing China market are being swamped by the oversupply of wine now being sold here after Beijing effectively banned our labels by hiking taxes.

With wineries striving to right their ship as quickly as possible, The Australian Wine Club on Wednesday is presenting an extraordinary offer: 50 per cent off four classic reds from premium producers.

Among the wines on offer are two from wineries who scored five red stars in James Halliday’s Wine Companion: a cracking Kilikanoon grenache shiraz mataro blend that usually sells for $55 a bottle and Leogate’s flagship Brokenback shiraz that normally carries a $40 price tag.

A 95-point cabernet sauvignon from McLaren Vale’s five-star Zilzie Wines and a $60 bottle of Barossa shiraz from Allegiance Wines round out the foursome.

“China has had a big impact on us, no doubt,’’ Kilikanoon chief winemaker Pete Warr told me. “But we’re building great new partners in places like Korea and doors are opening again in Canada and the United States.”

In the meantime, there is more of Kilikanoon’s Baudinet Blend Clare Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2018 to go around – and it will win plenty of new friends here.

Pete has achieved the sought-after harmony between the three varieties made famous in France’s southern Rhone.

The grenache brings soft blue fruit flavours and lifted aromatics, melding with shiraz’s crisp red berries and tannin structure, while mataro delivers the earthiness and spice that I love in GSMs.

“The mataro usually only makes up 6 to 10 per cent of the blend but for me it’s the unsung hero in a good GSM,’’ Pete said.

Kilikanoon, established by larger-than-life wine identity Kevin Mitchell in 1997, is the biggest producer of grenache in Clare.

“Grenache has had its share of highs and lows in Australia,’’ Pete said. “Originally there was a lot of grenache planted in Australia for fortified wine and then it was mainly just used as a blender to fatten out wines after shiraz established itself as king.

“People were pulling out grenache vines at one point but Kevin said, ‘bugger that, we’re keeping grenache’. Now it’s really back in favour, people are loving modern grenache styles and it’s being planted again.”

As veterans of the wine game know, there will always be twists and turns, ups and downs, booms and busts.

Australia’s wine exports to China plummeted from $1bn in 2020 to a paltry $29.5m last year but as big as that shock has been, the sun will continue to rise for the best producers. All we can do as consumers is to support our favourite wineries through this tough time.

Kilikanoon Baudinet Blend Clare Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2018

Grenache from one of the highest-altitude vineyards in the Clare leads this gold medal-winning triumph. Strikes pitch-perfect balance between fruity sweetness and earthy savouriness. Blueberry, cherry and raspberry aromas lift from the glass, leading to juicy red fruit and savoury meat with a sprinkle of spice. Powdery tannins and a long persistent finish. A beauty. 14.5% alc; RRP $55 a bottle.

SPECIALS $49.99 a bottle in any dozen; $23.75 a bottle in featured dozen

Zilzie Platinum Edition McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

This five-star producer is owned by a family who have been farming since the early 1900s. Run by Roslyn Forbes and sons Steven and Andrew, Zilzie scored Double Gold at the China Wine and Spirit Awards for this super approachable cabernet. Blackberry, cassis, black cherries and briny olive characters offer a deep, layered flavour profile. Powerful yet light on its feet. James Halliday has noted Zilzie wines “consistently far exceed expectations, given their enticing prices”. 14.5% alc; RRP $35 a bottle.

SPECIALS $22.99 a bottle in any dozen; $23.75 a bottle in featured dozen

Leogate Brokenback Hunter Valley Shiraz 2018

 

One of the Hunter’s leading producers, with vineyards originally planted by the legendary Len Evans. High-quality, medium-bodied shiraz from a superb vintage matured in used French and American oak for 14 months. Violets, dark cherries and chocolate flavours to the fore with fresh leather and savoury earthy notes in the background. Memo to Hunter shiraz fans: jump on board. 14% alc; RRP $40 a bottle.

SPECIALS $24.99 a bottle any dozen; $23.75 a bottle in featured dozen

Allegiance Wines The Artisan Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020

Sourced from a 20-year-old block at Vine Vale on the Barossa Valley floor. Mulberry, raspberry, coffee, dark chocolate and vanilla aromas; bright fruit flavours supported by soft tannins and a refined silky finish. 95 points from Sam Kim at Wine Orbit. Gold medals at competitions in Europe and Asia. 15% alc; RRP $60 a bottle.

SPECIALS $49.99 a bottle in any dozen; $23.75 a bottle in featured dozen. Save $285

SPECIAL DOZEN Three bottles of each wine for $23.75 per bottle in featured dozen

Order online or telephone [phone] Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.