Rolf Binder sells up, leaving classy Barossa shiraz in his wake

One of the region’s big names has sold up, and we’re marking the occasion with a special deal on his world-class reds.

Binder from the Barossa doing what it does best: blindingly good shiraz.

After 40 years making wine in the Barossa, Rolf Binder remains adamant about one thing: the world shows no sign of losing its taste for Barossa shiraz.

“The market loves the oomph of shiraz,’’ the veteran winemaker says.

Rolf and his sister, Christa Deans, have worked side by side for decades, continuing the legacy of their father, Rolf Heinrich Binder, and mother Franziska, who started the family’s wine business in 1955 after first visiting the Barossa to pick grapes.

Over the years, the Binders patiently invested in vineyards across the valley, including centenarian shiraz vines planted in the 1890s in Vine Vale, and won a reputation for making beautifully balanced, sophisticated wines capable of exciting palates on the global stage.

American wine critic Robert Parker Jr is one of many international critics to have fallen under the Binders’ spell, calling their winery one of his favourites whose “offerings are never excessively oaked, possess extraordinary ripe, concentrated fruit, great individuality”.

But now Rolf and Christa are stepping back, selling the winery that carries their family name, and 113 hectares of vineyards, to Australia’s biggest winemaking company, Accolade.

They had to face the reality that the next generation of Binder children were moving in different directions.

Like wine itself, we all understand that nothing lasts forever, but that doesn’t mean we can’t celebrate the past. So this week, The Australian Wine Club presents a special deal of three stylish reds made by Rolf and Christa over the past few years. As always, the mixed-dozen deal offers extra special value.

Christa Deans and Rolf Binder leave a legacy of brilliant Barossa shiraz behind them.

Rolf isn’t walking away from the wine game entirely. While he’s interested in working more with grapes like carignan and montepulciano, he believes the Barossa should never forget what it does brilliantly.

“The Barossa should stick to what has made it so famous, which is shiraz and the other Rhone varieties,’’ he told wine critic Huon Hooke soon after the sale was announced.

“Like pinot noir in Burgundy and grenache in the southern Rhone, we need to acknowledge what has got us to where we are.”

The wines below illustrate the beauty and class of modern Barossan red.

Rolf Binder Heysen Barossa Valley Shiraz 2017

A common trait of this Binder trio is lovely palate weight and delicate flavours. These are not jammy, heavy, high-alcohol wines, but beautifully balanced, polished wines that Barossa’s best winemakers are striving for today. The Heysen is one of the premium flagships of the Binder portfolio. Juicy, velvety and supported by lively acidity. Black plums, blackberries and spice, with just a touch of eucalypt giving a sense of place. High-quality shiraz. Scored 95 Halliday points and a gold. Amazing value in the mixed-dozen deal. RRP $70 a bottle. SPECIAL $59.50 in straight dozen; $27.99 in mixed-dozen deal.

Rolf Binder Heinrich Barossa Valley Shiraz Mataro Grenache 2017

 

Sourced from low-yielding, old vines on the Binder estate, this shiraz-dominant blend (roughly 50/30/20) weaves fruit sweetness with a thread of rustic savouriness. The combination is classic Barossa: peppery shiraz, soft tannins from century-old Mataro and juicy raspberry flavours from the Grenache, picked from 70-year-old vines on the Western Ridge at Gomersal. Cedar, wood smoke and chocolate notes round out the picture. The Heinrich is made in tribute to Rolf Heinrich Binder and doesn’t let him down. 93 points from team Halliday. 14% alc. RRP $40 a bottle. SPECIAL $34 in straight dozen; $27.99 in mixed-dozen deal.

Rolf Binder Hales Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015

Nothing better than trying Barossa shiraz with a few years under the belt – of the wine, that is! The 2015 Hales was released as a $25 wine but shows us again the complexities that most Barossa shiraz reveal when given a little time. Medium-bodied; full of flavour. Aromas of blueberries, violets and licorice lift from the glass, before subtle flavours of anise, hoisin and Chinese spice emerge, giving this wine interesting complexity. Let it breathe as you enjoy your first sips, take your time and you’ll see the wine change. 13.5% alc. RRP $25 a bottle. SPECIAL $21.25 in straight dozen; $27.99 in mixed-dozen deal.

ROLF BINDER MIXED DOZEN Four bottles of each wine $27.99 a bottle.

Order online or telephone [phone] Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites.