Riesling romantics cheer stunning wines from Frankland Estate, Alkoomi, Mitchell, Kilikanoon and Mountadam

Taste this wine from one of Western Australia’s leading five-star wineries and you’ll understand why this noble variety is truly on the rise.

It’s been a long journey from the days when cheap white wine was branded ‘riesling’ to denote a light-bodied, sweet wine.

Taste this wine and you’ll understand why riesling romantics are confident this noble variety is truly on the rise in Australia after decades of persistence.

Deliciously ripe, zinging with lemons and limes, utterly refreshing – and so uncomplicated.

I’m sampling Frankland Estate’s Rocky Gully riesling – a little ripper to be sure, especially for less than $20. But my point is broader: there are so many similarly good rieslings being produced in Australia nowadays that wine lovers may be collectively having an “aha” moment.

“We’re seeing a big swing towards riesling,’’ says Frankland Estate co-winemaker Hunter Smith, whose family has been producing world-class rieslings from Western Australia’s Great Southern since the early 1990s.

The Australian Wine Club this week celebrates riesling’s revival, with a mixed dozen offer for as little as $16.49 a bottle. Look out also for a bonus offer below involving another leading Great Southern winery.

It’s been a long journey from the days when cheap white wine – often a blend of varieties such as sultana, colombard, trebbiano and semillon – was branded “riesling” to denote a light-bodied, sweet wine. Eventually, pressure from Europe’s wine industry brought an end to misleading labels but by then poor old riesling had been stigmatised in the minds of many Australian wine drinkers as being sweet and cheap.

Hunter remembers his parents, Barrie Smith and Judi Cullam – soon after establishing Frankland Estate in 1988 – being so perplexed at riesling’s bad name that his mother jumped on the road herself to explain the wine’s virtues directly to wine lovers.

“When my father first planted riesling, many people said to him, ‘You’ll be drinking it yourself.’ He said, ‘That’s OK. I like riesling,’’’ Hunter recalls.

To develop more knowledge about riesling in Australia, Barrie and Judi started the Frankland Estate International Riesling Tasting and offered scholarships to Australians working in the wine trade to experience vintages in great wine-producing nations such as Germany and Austria.

Today, Frankland Estate, located about 3½ hours’ drive south of Perth, is regarded as one of Australia’s most consistent riesling producers, winning international acclaim and five red stars in the Halliday Wine Companion.

Great Southern has also become one of Australia’s greatest riesling regions, with leading British wine critic Jancis Robinson calling out its “particularly distinctive style” in making “dry, confident” wines with a unique grassy quality.

Frankland Estate produces six rieslings each vintage, including two superb higher-priced, single-vineyard rieslings from its organically grown Isolation Ridge and Poison Hill vineyards.

“We’re striving to produce rieslings with lovely fruit ripeness while maintaining natural acidity – wines with power, intensity and elegance,’’ Hunter says.

Frankland Estate Rocky Gully Frankland River Riesling 2020

I sampled the Rocky Gully in a blind tasting and its depth of flavour led me to assume it was far more expensive. Lovely rich flavours of limes, lemons and orange rind ride on a nicely balanced line of natural acid. Dry finish. Scored a red star for exceptional value from James Halliday. 13% alc. RRP $20. SPECIALS $16.49 a bottle in mixed riesling dozen; $17 in any mixed dozen

Mitchell Clare Valley Watervale Riesling 2016

Clare’s famed Watervale subregion and the Mitchell family have produced classic riesling for decades. Under the watchful eye of Jane and Andrew Mitchell, all vineyards are managed organically. It’s a treat to see this 2016 gently grow in complexity; the lime and lemon blossom of its youth develop into a deeper lemon-lime cordial flavour with hints of brioche toast and quince. 94 Halliday points on its release. 13% alc. RRP $25. SPECIALS $16.49 a bottle in mixed riesling dozen; $19.99 in any mixed dozen

Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling 2020

Mort’s Block vineyard was planted over 40 years ago by Mort Mitchell, father of Kevin Mitchell, Kilikanoon’s founder. Mort’s Block is well known for producing rieslings laced with jasmine, fresh lime and apple characters, leading to a clean chalky finish. 12.5% alc.

RRP $25. SPECIALS $16.49 a bottle in mixed riesling dozen; $21.25 in any mixed dozen

Mountadam Vineyards Eden Valley Riesling 2019

From 50-year-old plantings in Eden Valley’s high country comes this clean, crisp riesling, with lifted aromas of Kaffir lime and jasmine. Subtle lemon and lime flavours meld with refreshing minerally characters. Graceful. 92 points from Halliday. 12.5% alc.

RRP $28 SPECIALS $16.49 a bottle in mixed riesling dozen; $19.99 in any mixed dozen

+BONUS DEAL Add 3 extra bottles to your order

 

Alkoomi Black Label Frankland River Riesling 2019

One of Great Southern’s leading lights, Alkoomi was established in 1971 by Merv and Judy Lange. The Black Label 2019 is an outstanding example of Great Southern riesling: minerally acidity provides the backbone to layers of citrus fruit. Delicate but powerful. Will develop further for years. 94 Halliday points and a red star for exceptional value. 12.5% alc. RRP $30

SPECIAL $22 a bottle, only when three bottles are added to mixed riesling dozen

Postscript: Last week, our first Secret Cellar wine deal sold out within 24 hours of release. We’re sorry if you missed out but plan to repeat similar mystery offers before long.

Order online or telephone [phone] Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine.