Keller Riesling, Huber Pinot Noir and other great German wines

There are plenty of great new German wines in our restaurants right now. Here is what to eat with them.

Great wines deserve the right culinary accompaniment.

Many of Australia’s better restaurants now offer a good range of German wines. The greater challenge is in finding dishes to match them. That said, the advent of the 2014 and 2015 vintages means adventurousness will make the riches of exploration all the more rewarding.

2015 Keller Riesling Trocken, about $45: From the maestro Klaus-Peter Keller, this is his entry-level dry white (Trocken = dry). Voluminous aroma of freshly squeezed lime and grapefruit, with a racy structure that stimulates and satiates the palate with its seamless complexity of minerality and intense fruitiness. Silly good for this level. Best match: Crudo of snapper, hiramasa kingfish and bluefin tuna with Meyer lemon, ginger and chives at Rockpool Bar and Grill, Sydney.

2014 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, about $42: A brilliant wine from Dr “Ernie” Loosen, from the “sundial” vineyard of Wehlener. Complex mouth-watering aromas of lime and grapefruit, with the cool minerality and purity of a mountain river stream. Racy and positively refreshing, the spine-tingling acidity keeps the touch of residual sugar on its toes, all the way to a satisfying, fresh and long finish. Best match: Char-siu roasted Glacier 51 toothfish at Mr Wong, Sydney.

2012 Huber Pinot Noir, about $49: It’s not entirely about white wine in Germany. There are some pretty handy reds, usually from spatburgunder (pinot noir), which accounts for about 11.5 per cent of all German vineyard plantings. This is Huber’s baby of his red-wine range. It features an appealing cool aroma of blue berry and cherry fruits, with subtle background notes of menthol and oak. Bright juicy red fruits on entry, medium weight mid-palate, this is lively and very drinkable. Prost! Best match: Housemade sausages, spatzle, braised cabbage and lardons at City Wine Shop, Melbourne.

2014 Georg Breuer Terra Montosa Riesling, about $49: Aromas of warm pear and apple compote foreshadow the palate, which is ridiculously lively given its medium to full-bodied weight. The white fruit flavour melange is supported by beautifully integrated acidity leading to a distinctly saline note on the long farewell. Yum! I want this at home with roast pork and apple sauce. Best match: Roasted yellow duck curry at Coda, Melbourne.

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