Golden chardonnays from TarraWarra, Mountadam, Hungerford Hill & Altuse Rise
Here’s a line-up of four high-quality chardonnays that show Australia can match the French when it comes to consistency, year after year.
How does Australian chardonnay stack up against French rivals?
Winemaker Adam McCallum has a clear view, having crafted wines at Yarra Valley’s five-star winery, TarraWarra, for the past 12 years while also working vintages in Burgundy in 2004 and 2012.
For pure consistency of style and quality, vintage after vintage, Adam believes Australia has the edge.
TarraWarra’s 95-point 2018 chardonnay is one of five lovely wines we’re offering in a special chardonnay deal at The Australian Wine Club this week. Along with the TarraWarra, we’ve sourced high-quality chardonnays from Margaret River, the Hunter Valley and Eden Valley.
For the ultimate chardonnay taste test, we’re also offering what I believe is an absolute beauty of a French chardonnay in a 15-bottle deal for $19.99 a bottle.
Adam, coming up to his 20th vintage as a winemaker, says Australia is making more and more chardonnays now that have a lovely balance between fruit richness, freshness and subtle oak texture.
“Chardonnay got a bad rap for a while and fell out of favour but there’s a resurgence now,” he says. “Perhaps in the early ’90s too many chardonnays being produced were too oaky and going through full malolactic fermentation. (Malolactic fermentation is a secondary fermentation process of converting malic acid in the grapes to lactic acid to create creamy, buttery flavours.)
“Winemakers may have been trying to copy Burgundy but our wines don’t really benefit from that.
“Australia has really found its feet now and, yes, I would say our chardonnays are more consistent than Burgundy.’’
Adam said he learned during the 2004 vintage in Burgundy how challenging winemaking can be due to the varying climatic conditions in the French region renowned for its pinot noir and chardonnay.
“It was a really tough vintage and you realise how many things can go wrong there due to its climate,” he says. “Hail, frosts, disease – there’s not a lot of wind so weather can really settle in for a week or so, and there’s a lot more humidity and disease pressure.
“But you do have to say that when Burgundy gets it right, their chardonnays can produce more complexity than others – that’s the magic of Burgundy I guess, but it’s not as consistent.”
TarraWarra has made consistency and premium quality the hallmarks of its brand since being established by Marc and Eva Besen in 1983.
As James Halliday has said, the Besens always operated the winery on the basis that “quality is paramount, cost a secondary concern”.
“TarraWarra is, and always has been, one of the top-tier wineries in the Yarra Valley,’’ Halliday says.
As an aside, Marc, now in his 90s, also achieved spectacular success in the rag trade, working with Eva’s brother, John Gandel, to build the Sussan fashion brand into a retail empire that included Melbourne’s Highpoint shopping centre.
Here’s five high-quality chardonnays ready to enjoy this spring.
TarraWarra Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2018
Adam McCallum remembers the vintage as warm, with the fruit ripening evenly. The chardonnay was hand-picked, whole bunch-pressed with about half the fruit fermented in tank for freshness and the other in new and seasoned French oak for texture. Great intensity with stone fruits, a touch of citrus and underlying cashew nut flavours. Creamy texture and subtle use of oak leading to a fresh, lingering finish. 95 points from James Halliday. 3.2% alc; RRP $34 a bottle.
SPECIALS $29.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $21.49 a bottle in chardonnay deal dozen
Mountadam Eden Valley Chardonnay 2019
The Mountadam is a cult classic among our club members. Classy oak richness on the nose with white peach, melon and citrus flavours. Lovely balance between oak and fruit. Hints of grapefruit on the finish. 93 points from Team Halliday. 14% alc; RRP $28 a bottle.
SPECIALS $21.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $21.49 a bottle in chardonnay deal dozen
Hungerford Hill Dalwood Vineyard Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2021
From a historic vineyard on the banks of the Hunter River, widely regarded as the birthplace of Hunter Valley wine. The 2021 lures you in with spicy pineapple, peach and green mango aromas. A melding of tangy lemon and cashew nut flavours fill the palate, with crisp acidity giving a refreshing finish. 12.5% alc; RRP $40 a bottle
SPECIALS $31.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $21.49 a bottle in chardonnay deal dozen
Altus Rise Wildlight Margaret River Chardonnay ’21
Bright and fruity style from Margaret River. Waves of white stone fruit and hints of lemon and lime on the nose. Nectarines and grapefruit flavours supported by soft acid and a subtle oak influence. As fresh and clean as an early spring day. 13% alc; RRP $26 a bottle
SPECIALS $19.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $21.49 a bottle in chardonnay deal dozen
Three bottles of each wine for $21.49 a bottle. Save $126 a dozen.
+ FRENCH BONUSAdd three bottles of La Balade de JMS 2021 for $19.99 a bottle across the 15 bottles
We take the mystery out of finding affordable, reliable French chardonnay with this ripper from Le Chai au Quai. Like good Burgundies, the wine went through malolactic fermentation – but the price tag is much lower. 13.5% alc. RRP $25 a bottle.
Order online or phone 1300 765 359 Mon-Fri 8am-6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine.
More Coverage
This budget chicken dish will become a weekly favourite
A classic takeaway dish at home and on a budget. These sticky sesame nuggets of gold will have you wanting more.
Grain-fed beef carbon footprint lower than thought
New research shows the 1970s model used to measure greenhouse gas emissions from cattle feedlots has been significantly overstating emissions.