French kiss: Rhone Valley reds mix includes wines from Terrasses des Safres and Cuvee du Vatican

From our man on the ground in southern France, here’s a mix of velvety reds exhibiting a dangerously drinkable quality – at an equally appealing price point.

This week’s offer features a mixed dozen born of the Rhone valley.

It must just be our imagination, but you can almost feel the warmth of the last traces of summer in the south of France coming through the monitor screen as winemaker Mark Hoddy chats away.

The Australian Wine Club’s man on the ground in the southern Rhone is justifiably proud of his work with the legendary Perrin family to produce the 2022 Terrasses Des Safres Ventoux – a deliciously soft blend that makes up a quarter of this week’s special offer case.

It’s a mixed dozen born of the Rhone valley, with that Perrin Ventoux sitting alongside two Cote du Rhone exemplars (one with a usual RRP of $46) and a grenache-heavy blend from Vacqueyras – together discounted by more than a third to $21.99 a bottle in this case.

Hoddy’s experience of making wines in Australia, Spain and France is one of the factors in delivering such a dangerously drinkable Ventoux. But he believes his proximity to the oenological action is also crucial in securing vats from around the region that can be in hot demand.

Specifically in this case, it’s the relationship built up with the Perrin family, whose growth and pedigree spawned over five generations hasn’t come at the expense of quality.

“They’re all wine people, from the bottom to the top, and I think that’s the most important thing,” says Hoddy. “There’s a lot of estates that branch out into doing a lot of other things, and they don’t really have the expertise.

“But the Perrin family has kept the expertise throughout. They developed also a négociant business, which means they’re buying in grapes (for blending) and they have vineyards on a contract.

“It’s incredible how they maintain the quality throughout, right through to the satellite appellations they have.

“That was what really interested me, the quality of those satellite appellations – being here, living here, and actually getting to know Laurent, especially, who’s the winemaker for the négociant business.

“I like the angle of the Ventoux because of the quality versus price. They let me blend with Pierre Perrin on this cuvee that we do, the Terrasses des Safres.

“The volumes are good, they seem to have a great ability to have consistency through vintages.”

Hoddy also notes that the selection in this case points to changing times in a French wine industry so long accused of being hidebound to tradition. The Ventoux comes under screwcap, while two of the other wines in the case carry no capsule – the foil wrapping at the top of the bottle.

For all the sense of ceremony in cutting and removing the sleeve, before pulling out the cork, there are even better reasons to do without the foil garnish.

“We started removing a lot of capsules because they require a huge amount of energy to produce, they have plastic in them and they’re non-recyclable,” says Hoddy. “There is no point in them whatsoever, apart from aesthetically they look good.

“I won’t deny it, they do look nice but, from our point of view, that’s not really strong enough to warrant putting a capsule on.”

Terrasses des Safres 2022

Deep ruby to the eye, there’s a lovely balance of fruit and savouriness on the nose – brambles and blackberry but also the garrigue concept of earthy dried herbs. Likewise the palate has fruit but also leather and smokiness, some obliging tannins to maintain a structure and a silky, mouth-filling palate-weight. 13.5% alc, RRP $30 a bottle.

SPECIALS $23.99 in any mixed case, $21.99 a bottle in our Rhone case.

Cuvee du Vatican Reserve de l’Abbe Cotes du Rhone 2022

You get a sense of the fruit and vanilla driving this wine as you breathe it in – plus a liberal sprinkling of herbs – but it’s in the mouth where the intensity of the plum and black cherry flavours really comes into play. It’s soft, velvety and reflective, with a hint of coffee on the finish and excellent length to appreciate. 14.5% alc, RRP $28 a bottle.

SPECIALS $21.99 in any mixed case, $21.99 a bottle in our Rhone case.

Cuvee Prestigieux Cotes du Rhone Villages 2022

The natural affinity this deep ruby number would have with food is obvious, thanks to a savoury nose with licorice, dried herbs and hints of the pan juices left by a succulent roast. There’s blackcurrant too, just as there is in the mouth along with aniseed notes, more herbs and reassuringly firm tannins to give the whole a sense of gravitas. 14.5%alc, RRP $30 a bottle.

SPECIALS $21.99 in any mixed case, $21.99 a bottle in our Rhone case.

Cuvee Prestigieux Vacqueyras 2022

The nose here is all about well-judged seasonings – pepper to start with along with garrigue herbs and touches of smoke, before the black cherry and blackberry add a counterpoint of fruit. Sip it and the velvet texture is suffused with rich, intense fruit and dried herbs. With layers of complexity, mouth-filling weight and a full body, this would be a soulmate of venison. 14.5% alc, RRP $46 a bottle.

SPECIALS $37.99 in any mixed case, $21.99 a bottle in our Rhone case.

RHONE DOZEN Three bottles of each wine above for $21.99 a bottle. SAVE $138.

Order online or phone [phone] Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm AEST. Deals are available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.