Cheeky winter warmers: recommended red wines

These reds of various origins, size and shape will warm your heart without being too extravagant.

Cheeky reds for those chilly winter nights at home.

You know those chilly nights at home when all you want is a good feed, a warm partner and a cheeky red? These wines will warm the cockles of your heart without being too extravagant for that quiet night in.

2014 Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Tenuta Ulisse, about $29. Don’t let the dense vibrant colour fool you — this is no vinous beast. It’s as playful as a puppy just craving to be tickled on the tummy. The dark appearance belies its fresh (stainless steel maturation), fruit-driven palate of supple, dark fruit flavours of medium weight and length, finishing with a delicious dark bitter chocolate note. Demands a home fry-up.

2010 La Spinetta Ca’ Di Pian Barbera D’Asti, about $44. This barbera from Piedmont is channelling Bruce Willis halfway through Die Hard 1. It’s tightly wound, with brooding flavours of blackberries and plums, cured meats and a tasty uptick of licorice to finish. No idle quaffer, this robust, “selvaggio” wine demands food. Enjoy with some pan-fried bread drowned with extra virgin olive oil and rock salt, with various flavoured salami (truffle, fennel) and prosciutto on the side.

2015 Whistler ‘Stacks On’ GSM blend, about $35. This wine piles on the flavour. Dominated by bright primary grenache red fruit characters, the palate is eager to please with its cuddly shape and punnets of juicy, red and black fruit. A touch of aniseed rounds out the finish. A wine that is what it aims to be, which — as Arthur Daley might put it — is “a nice little table wine”. Drink with mushrooms on toast with rock salt and rosemary.

2013 Seresin ‘Leah’ Pinot Noir, about $43. Notwithstanding its fame for sauvignon blanc, Marlborough produces many fine pinots. This one features lifted aromas of cool red berry fruits with a pleasing herbal background note. The beautifully balanced and physiologically ripe fruit of the 2013 vintage results in a generously flavoured palate while still remaining elegant. Serve with some confit duck from your local providore.