Cape Barren, Willoughby Park, Allegiance Wines and Julien Bouchard bring their fine chardonnays
These four whites – including a brightly laced white Burgundy and a pitch-perfect Adelaide Hills cracker – show why wine lovers are bowing before the Queen of grapes once again.
Winemaking legend Rob Dundon is within sight of his 50th vintage and he reckons we’ve finally hit the sweet spot with our Australian chardonnay style. He remembers well the big, over-oaked chardonnays of the 1980s and ’90s – the type that almost made you feel like you were sucking on an oak tree.
“We have this modern style now and people are loving it,’’ says Dundon, whose pitch-perfect Cape Barren Adelaide Hills chardonnay stars in our line-up of four chardonnay beauties this week. “We’re letting those round juicy flavours like white peaches and cashews and lemon-curd creaminess really come through. The oak – and nowadays we’re using really high-quality French oak – is used to add structure and length to the wine but without the added oakiness.’’
The Australian Wine Club’s special chardonnay collection this week brings together four chardonnays – including a brightly laced white Burgundy – that all belong in that happy club where fruit leads the dance.
“Chardonnay is taking its rightful place as the queen of all grape varietals – cabernet is the king but chardonnay is the queen,” Dundon says. His personal wine story dates back to 1974 after graduating from ag college with a biochemistry degree – and a nagging thought that “I don’t want to be doing this all my life”. As it turned out, Dundon was among a cohort of agricultural science graduates who entered the wine industry in the mid-’70s and went on to play major roles: names like Bill Hardy, Brian Crozier, John Duval and Geoff Weaver.
Dundon took up a graduate’s job at Hardys and within 18 months was given responsibility for making the company’s red wine, fortifieds and brandy at Tintarra in McLaren Vale. Twelve years later, with Hardys going global, he decided to get out and do his own thing, starting Beresford Wines and later Step Rd. Such was the success, the operation ended up with 270 acres under vine, crushing something like 4000 tonnes a year. “I ended up spending more time on the road than I spent with my family,’’ Dundon says.
He would never say it, but in the process his wines also won about 2000 medals and 200 trophies at wine shows around the world.
After 22 years building up Beresford and Step Rd, Dundon took the opportunity to sell out. But before too long, he heard through his contacts that Cape Barren was quietly being sold – and he couldn’t resist. Cape Barren is now building an enviable reputation for its cool-climate Adelaide Hills chardonnay and old-vine shiraz and grenache, sourced from dry-grown vines between 70 and 125 years old, mainly around Blewitt Springs.
Dundon’s deft touch and experience as a winemaker – he’s just completed his “47th or 48th vintage” – are also clearly on display with his Native Goose chardonnay. If you’re a chardonnay lover who hasn’t yet discovered the Native Goose, it’s time to take flight.
Cape Barren Native Goose Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2018
Sourced from a particularly cold, high-altitude vineyard out past Lobenthal in the Adelaide Hills, the 2018 shows off a Goldilocks balance between refreshing fruit and creamy oak. White peach, melon and lively citrus aromas lift from the glass; on the palate the fruit shimmers within a soft vanilla envelope. Finely structured, with the natural acidity giving it zip, and the French oak delivering a long, persistent finish. Adelaide Hills chardonnay at its best. Won a host of awards including gold at the European Wine Challenge and double gold at the China Wine & Spirits Awards. 13.7% alc; RRP $30 a bottle.
SPECIALS $21.99 a bottle in any dozen; $20.83 in chardonnay dozen
Willoughby Park Kalgan River Great Southern Chardonnay 2019
This premium fruit is grown at a tiny vineyard founded 22 years ago on Western Australia’s dramatic south coast near the Porongurup Range National Park. Our club president, James Halliday, has described Kalgan River as the “mighty mouse” of vineyards, producing “premium fruit with amazing concentration of flavour, offering true varietal definition”. If you love West Australian-oaked chardonnay with elegance, this will be right up your alley. Aromas of nectarines and citrus flow from the glass, leading to a palate of rich fruit and toasty vanilla notes. Digestive biscuits and lemon tart came to mind! Super enjoyable with or without food. 14% alc; RRP $32 a bottle.
SPECIALS $27.20 a bottle in any dozen; $20.83 in chardonnay dozen
Allegiance Wines The Matron Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2021
The Matron comes from a single vineyard site about 530m above sea level in the cool-climate NSW region of Tumbarumba on the western edge of the Snowy Mountains. (As an aside, Tumbarumba’s status as a chardonnay-producing region has continued to grow after Penfolds selected its fruit to be blended in flagship chardonnay Yattarna.) Allegiance winemaker Tim Cox has created a finely textured chardonnay here, with pear, peach and citrus peel flavours singing along a fine line of natural acidity. Subtle French oak sits in the background. Three gold medals, including at Europe’s prestigious Gilbert & Gaillard International Competition this year. 13% alc; RRP $25 a bottle.
SPECIALS $19.99 a bottle in any dozen; $20.83 in chardonnay dozen
Julien Bouchard Bourgogne Chardonnay 2020
Our French chardonnay hails from the Macon in southern Burgundy and presents bright peach, pear and nectarine flavours with creamy, honeyed notes flowing across the rich, rounded palate. It’s a fresh style, with lovely texture adding complexity. Behind this wine stands Albert Bichot, rated Burgundy’s producer of the year in both red and white categories during his esteemed career. Does life get better than white Burgundy with a creamy chicken pie? 13% alc; RRP $40 a bottle.
SPECIALS $29.99 a bottle in any dozen; $20.83 in chardonnay dozen
CHARDONNAY DOZEN Three bottles of each wine for $20.83 a bottle
Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine.
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