Affordable pinot noir from Riposte, Soumah, Graphite Road, Russell & Suitor and Allegiance
The magic of pinot noir is the stuff of Hollywood movies and its popularity is on the rise – but it doesn’t need to be expensive anymore.
Paul Giamatti’s lead character in my favourite wine movie, Sideways, will be leaping for joy.
Giamatti’s character, wine buff Miles, despises the easy-drinking nature of merlot (which was being over-produced in America at the time) and romanticises the more complicated virtues of pinot noir.
In his most famous line in the movie, uttered before going out to dinner, Miles goes over the top: “If anyone orders merlot I’m leaving. I’m not drinking any f@#$ing merlot.”
It was a very funny scene, but Australian winemakers are getting more serious about pinot too: in the 2021 vintage, pinot leapfrogged merlot into third place, with production up 52 per cent and the price per tonne rising 14 per cent. (Shiraz and cabernet remained first and second in terms of production volume.)
Pinot’s lighter style and slightly lower alcohol is winning the hearts of more Aussie wine drinkers – so here’s an opportunity to join the parade with The Australian Wine Club’s super-inexpensive pinot noir dozen.
Included in our offering is Tim Knappstein’s Riposte The Dagger pinot from the Adelaide Hills – in my book one of Australia’s best mid-$20 pinots, year in year out.
Knappstein, who just celebrated his 60th vintage, fell under pinot’s spell a while back, planting a cool-climate vineyard at Lenswood in the Adelaide Hills in 1981.
“I just love the complexity of flavour in pinot without it being aggressively tannic; it’s soft, mouth-filling and goes with so many foods – lamb, chicken, duck, pork,’’ Knappstein said.
You’ll find pinots from six different regions, including one from France. They span the pinot flavour spectrum from classic cherry and strawberry to more savoury styles. Together, they serve as a well-priced introduction to this most seductive of grapes.
Riposte The Dagger Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2020
There’s a beautiful freshness to The Dagger. Sweet cherries and mulberries dominate the nose, but there’s more if you linger: violets, roses and mushrooms too. Pristine red fruits fill your mouth, wrapped in a silky smooth veil. Knappstein makes The Dagger without oak – his goal is to show what fresh, unadulterated pinot tastes like. He succeeds! 93 points from Wine Orbit’s Sam Kim. Drink now. 13.5% alc. RRP $25 a btl. SPECIALS $21.25 a btl in any doz; $20.83 in pinot mixed doz
Soumah Single Vineyard Yarra Valley Upper Ngumby Pinot Noir 2019
This five-star winery takes pinot noir seriously. The Upper Ngumby vineyard near Yarra Glen has been carefully selected: sloping gently east, protected from the afternoon sun by Christmas Hills to the west, with consistent warm days and cool, cool nights. You’ll be greeted by rhubarb, dark cherries and cranberry aromas, opening the door to a sophisticated palate of sour cherries, brown mushrooms and savoury earthiness. Distinctively stylish pinot from a high-quality Yarra producer. Utterly amazing value in mixed pinot dozen. 13% alc. RRP $40 a btl. SPECIALS$34 a btl in any doz; $20.83 in pinot mixed doz.
Graphite Road Walker & Wilde Manjimup Pinot Noir 2021
It’s through Manjimup’s land of the giants we wander, in WA’s stunning southwest, to find this little surprise packet. The karri trees are some of the biggest on Earth but it’s what’s under foot that counts. Geology is the X-factor when it comes to what you taste in your glass. Here, it’s the extremely rich and gravelly loams that deliver flavours of depth and character. Complex aromas of cherry pip, strawberries and clove elevate this wine, loaded with rich fruit flavours and a hint of vanilla bean. With this label, Graphite Road’s Peos family salute the geologists Walker and Wilde whose research identified Manjimup’s vast potential in the 1980s. (Btw: the region also lays claim to Australia’s most successful black truffle industry.) 14.5% alc. RRP $32 a btl
SPECIALS $27.20 a btl in any doz; $20.83 in pinot mixed doz
Le Fief du Temple Pinot Noir 2020
You’ll instantly realise you’ve left Aussie shores as you raise your glass. You’ve arrived in France’s Loire Valley and you can almost smell the rustic countryside woven into the blackcurrant, blackberry and raspberry aromas. This is a bright, fruity style of pinot, with a hint of cola and pinch of spice. Surprising depth of flavour in this modestly priced Frenchy. Made by Loire veteran Noël Bougrier. 12.5% alc. RRP $25 a btl. SPECIALS $25 a btl in any doz; $20.83 in pinot mixed doz
Russell & Suitor Son of a Bull Tamar Valley Pinot Noir 2020
Tasmania’s reputation as a quality pinot region continues to rise. At the same time, the price of entry-level offerings is moderating, giving everyone a chance to experience what’s on offer. Spicy red and blackberry fruits here with brambly notes and bay leaf in the background, supported by grainy tannins. Drink now. 13.5% alc. RRP $28 a btl. SPECIALS $23.80 a btl in any doz; $20.83 in pinot mixed doz
Allegiance Wines L’Artiste Tumbarumba Pinot Noir 2021
From the edge of the Snowy Mountains comes this lighter-style pinot, from a region that has become a consistent source of chardonnay and pinot fruit, mainly used in sparkling wines. Bright ruby in colour, delicate aromas of strawberries and roses lead to strawberry and pomegranate flavours balanced by juicy acidity. Would dance nicely with a roasted duck and cranberry salad. 12% alc. RRP $30 a btl. SPECIALS $25.50 a btl in any doz; $20.83 in pinot mixed doz
SPECIAL PINOT NOIR DOZEN Two btls of each wine for $20.83 a bottle
Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine.
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