Flipped over: how thongs became high fashion (again)
From the runways at Paris to Bondi on a summer’s day, thongs are having a (nother) moment. Best warn your podiatrist.
Whether you call them thongs, flip flops or in certain parts, ‘pluggers,’ the flat rubber shoe is practically a way of life for many Australians. How else do you hot-foot it across the scorching sand to get an ice-cream in peak summer?
In recent fashion seasons however, and just in time for Australia’s steamiest months, the humble shoe has had something of a high fashion makeover. In unfortunate news for podophobics, it’s been coming for some time. Indeed last September Vogue definitely declared that “toes are the new legs.”
The toe-naissance really kicked up a notch at the Chanel runway at the luxury French fashion house’s spring ‘24 show during Paris Fashion Week last October.
The black thongs, with a white double C logo were worn with everything from roomy multi-coloured tweed jumpsuits to swimwear.
Since then the house has offered several different iterations of the shoe, including thicker sole rubber versions at the cruise show in Marseilles in May this year. Crucially, its rather more divisive, so-wrong-maybe-it’s-right evolution, the heeled flip flop, that ‘90s and early aughts mainstay, popped up this season at Miu Miu with a sporty vibe (an evolution of its hiking inspired cord thongs from earlier this year), with fringing at Proenza Schouler, at thinking-woman’s mecca Phoebe Philo and at Alexander McQueen.
Meanwhile the flip flop OG, Havaianas - purveyors of rubber thongs for more than 60 years - saw first quarter profits increase almost nine per cent and sales go up three per cent. It is capitalising on its fashion moment in other ways such as collaborations with Italian luxury brand Dolce & Gabbana in June, as well as lifestyle brand Maison Kitsune in April.
“Being part of people’s lives again is a must for us,” Maria Fernanda Albuquerque, vice president of global marketing at Havaianas’ parent company Alpargatas SA told industry publication The Business of Fashion in June. “Flip-flops are super on trend, so we need to ride this wave.”
In any case, you need only look at the attendees at Copenhagen Fashion Week to see the laid-back chic ‘Scandi girl’ look includes one essential ingredient - a pair of rubber flip flops acting as a source of aesthetic tension, or formality valve for tailoring and denim alike. Luxury etailer Net-a-Porter told Elle it had experienced a 600 per cent surge in searches for flip flops, with the likes of Swedish brand Toteme leading the charge.
It’s not the first time the egalitarian shoe-which has its origins in Ancient Greek, Egyptian, Roman, Japanese and Latin American cultures- has had a makeover however.
In the ‘90s, that eternally alluring period, the likes of Jennifer Aniston and the late Carolyn Besette Kennedy- an eternal style icon-were snapped in rubber thongs.
It fits too with fashion’s long-running obsession with ‘ugly chic’ shoes, with the likes of Birkenstocks (which floated on the New York stock exchange in October 2023), Teva hiking sandals, Crocs and clogs all became fashion catship and earning cult followings in recent years.
It’s also not the first time that flip flops have become altogether more luxe. Luxury label The Row, founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen (who incidentally are both also no stranger to a pair of rubber thongs) first put out an elevated leather version in 2019, with new iterations released in recent years. Closer to home, Australian fashion designer Christopher Esber continues to expand his global vision for the brand by going deeper into accessories, creating cult shoes in the process. His jelly-like ‘Jo’ flip flops in the black/clear and cola colourways have been restocked and sold-out three times to date.
For Esber they fit with his take on relaxed Australian chic.
“Having grown up in Australia, beach culture inevitably influences my design approach,” he says.
“I design to a notion of relaxed glamour; an elevated look that is paired back with casual codes, and so the Jo flip flop plays a natural role in this. It’s been exciting to play a role in the revival of a ‘90s icon and making it new again. The demand has made the style an instant bestseller, leading us to introduce a crystal variant, with crystals hand-applied to the straps, and exclusive navy and Guava colours for the Australian summer.”
It’s a similar story at minimalist focused Australian brand A.Emery. Anna McLaren, the brand’s founder and designer, says its leather thongs have been a hit with customers who want something a little fancier than standard rubber thongs. She says its Kinto sandal, a minimal flip flop style is currently the brand’s best selling shoe.
“The flip flop style has always been a classic of the Australian wardrobe. Recently we have seen customers be excited by the transition to more elevated designs. They can now get the same ease and comfort of a classic thong, with added care, style and quality,” she says.
Sara Crampton, founder of Australian online retailer The Undone which focuses on high-end minimalist labels, says the elevated flip flop fits with women wanting an unfussy kind of elegance.
“Thongs are the most streamlined silhouette of all summer sandals, they’re easy to slide on and have absolutely no fuss. Their effortless appeal, with the nod of approval from Chanel, The Row and Toteme alongside their quintessential Australian nostalgia makes them a timeless option that I feel everyone should own,” says Crampton.
Still, the thongs trend - and indeed fashion’s other current shoe trend, the return of high heels - comes with a word of caution from podiatrists though.
Sally Belcher, podiatrist at Rose Bay Podiatry, says they should be worn sparingly.
“Flip flops or thongs can be problematic when used as everyday footwear especially for extended periods,” she says.
“The main issues with flip-flops include lack of arch support, limited cushioning, and the potential for toe gripping. Over time, these factors can contribute to discomfort, foot pain, and even lead to conditions like plantar fasciitis, Achilles tendinitis, or toe deformities - which as podiatrists we do see a lot of.”
The same goes for that kinkier high heeled version.
“They are not great in a number of ways. Offering no heel support or strap, you would need to grip with your toes to keep the shoe on your foot which can lead to clawing/hammered toes, says Belcher.
“Moderation and suitable use would be the key.”
Oh, and Belcher adds, if you’re going to do it, do consider investing in a “medi-pedi.”
So really, like most good things in life, flip flops are best approached with a degree of moderation. They do however serve as a reminder that the fashion world loves nothing more than elevating the most ordinary - and divisive- of wardrobe items.
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