Mitchell Harris wine: a partnership written in the stars
The Mitchell Harris partnership was written in the stars. Here’s three of their best.
The Mitchell Harris partnership was written in the stars, but the crucible was Ballarat, where four people of roughly similar age grew up to follow pursuits other than wine.
Craig Mitchell became an anaesthetist, and his wife Alicia a physiotherapist, just like Craig’s sister Shannyn, who was to marry John Harris. John began to study immunology and pathology, but decided to abandon that career and enrol in the oenology degree course at Charles Sturt University.
He graduated in 1999, and was employed by Domaine Chandon as winemaker in 2000, where he remained until the end of 2007. But by dint of interlocking marriage, professional and personal friendship, and the common love of wine, there was one obvious decision to make in 2008 – form the Mitchell Harris partnership.
Harris’s knowledge of Pyrenees winery Mount Avoca began while he was studying for his degree, and Mount Avoca was delighted when he took the position of chief winemaker for the 2008-2010 vintages. It also gave Harris all-important income, access to wine in barrel surplus to its requirements, and a place to make and bottle the first Mitchell Harris wines.
In 2011 the partners purchased a free-standing, two-storey 1880s red brick workshop and warehouse in Ballarat, and spent the next two years renovating. It now serves as a cellar door for Mitchell Harris wines, a wine bar (there are 130 wines on the list, mainly from western Victoria), regional dishes and coffee, and an education facility and event space.
All four have designated roles in the business, some part-time. John: winemaking, wine list management at cellar door; Alicia: director and business manager; Shannyn: director, general marketing and management; and Craig: photography and digital marketing.
Elegant? Yes, and so are the wines.
2015 Mitchell Harris Wines Pyrenees Sauvignon Blanc Fume
A powerful, complex wine thanks to the low yield in the vineyard; while it underwent partial mlf and wild fermentation, and spent six months on lees, it still ended up light on its feet, cleansed by a long, savoury finish. 13.3 per cent alc, screwcap. 95 points, drink to 2018, $27
2014 Mitchell Harris Pyrenees Shiraz
Co-fermented with 2% viognier, 25% whole bunches, partial wild yeast fermentation, matured for 15 months in French oak. A strange business when you swear you can smell the elegance in the bouquet, but I do here. The vibrant red fruits, fine-grained tannins and silky smooth palate all deliver the goods. 13.5 per cent alc, screwcap. 96 points, drink to 2029, $35
2014 Mitchell Harris Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon
Bright, clear crimson-purple; the elegance I detected with the bouquet of the shiraz came through with utmost clarity here; likewise, the palate is effortless despite the complex vinification. Although cabernet is expected to inflict a certain amount of pain, here the dual faces of the variety are at peace with each other. 13 per cent alc, screwcap. 96 points, drink to 2039, $30
Wine: All Saints Estate Muscadelles
The All Saints story began in 1864 with two Scottish engineers, George Sutherland Smith and John Banks.
Wine: Mornington Peninsula pinot noirs
The Mornington Peninsula may not be as well known as the Yarra Valley but it’s closing the gap fast.