Australian Fashion Week: Designers ride new wave of sustainability

Resourcefulness has been a focus for some of the labels showing at this year’s Australian Fashion Week.

Verner models backstage at Australian Fashion Week. Picture: Getty Images

Clever resourcefulness has been a theme of this year’s Australian Fashion Week.

It could be seen in designers such as Marina Afonina, of Albus Lumen, reworking past samples for her new collection, and designers such as Ingrid Verner of Melbourne label Verner making some of her ’70s surf culture-inspired collection using op shop finds and reworking them for her show on Thursday.

Verner, who works with deadstock fabrics for her small-run collections, captured the feeling of a salty road trip holiday with hibiscus print shirts in brown and yellow, striped T-shirts and board shorts (a trend for the week found on and off both the runways and the beach).

Two emerging labels – Speed, which showed on Thursday evening and Injury, showing Friday – use processes such as made-to-order and upcycling fabrics to minimise waste.

Australian Fashion Council CEO Jaana Quaintance-James points to further heartening examples of sustainability efforts throughout the week, citing brands such as AFC members Carla Zampatti and Viktoria & Woods, which produce in Australia, and Alix Higgins and Iordanes Spyridon Gogos for upcycling and working with found objects.

One of the most sustainable things you can do is not produce anything at all, and Quaintance-James says emerging label Madre Natura was an exemplar for choosing to present its last season’s collection (titled The Last Season Collection) rather than create something new. The brand also offers repairs for all pieces.

“We cannot wait until activities like locally made, upcycling and preloved just become a way of being and the everyday industry norm instead of being exceptional, “says Quaintance-James.

Models walk the runway during the madre natura show during Australian Fashion Week. Picture: Getty Images

Mads Twomey-Madsen, senior vice-president global communications and sustainability at Danish jewellery giant Pandora, this year’s fashion week presenting partner, says AFW starting the week with a panel on sustainability was a promising sign.

Pandora also sponsors Copenhagen Fashion Week, which has entrance mandates around sustainability – participants must meet 18 minimum requirements on such things as material choice and working conditions. This includes that at least half of a collection must be made from certified, upcycled or recycled materials.

A model walks the runway during the madre natura show during Australian Fashion Week. Picture: Getty Images

Twomey-Madsen says the mandates have prompted brands to think more strategically and creatively about materials, production and working together to change how things are done.

“Sustainability got on the agenda at an early stage in Copenhagen. I think it has helped initiate an experimental approach to materials and cross-industry collaboration – essential components for reducing the footprint of the industry. One example is the Danish designer Henrik Vibskov’s knit couture made with grass juice fabric in co-op with the bioscience firm, Pond,” he says.

But, as Quaintance-James notes, more needs to be done to build capability and momentum for change in Australian fashion.

A model walks the runway during the Verner show during Australian Fashion Week. Picture: Getty Images