Haneda airport’s revamp makes sense for travellers
Narita has long been the go-to airport for international arrivals, but its newly revamped alternative is world class and minutes from the city.
A hotel room with a view? The panorama doesn’t always need to be a city skyline, a beach or beautiful countryside. When convenience rather than an inspiring landscape is a traveller’s main goal, then an airport runway can be a welcome sight.
Haneda airport was Tokyo’s first international gateway when it expanded in the 1960s and, by metropolitan standards, was relatively convenient to the centre of the Japanese capital, reached in less than 20 minutes by monorail or half an hour by limousine coach. But as tourism boomed and space so close to Tokyo was limited, Haneda became more of a domestic and regional hub. Narita was the bigger and better option when it launched in 1978 with more capacity, scope for increased cargo services, fewer urban noise restrictions and possibilities for expansion. But Narita, in Chiba prefecture, is several hours from Tokyo and that distance, by road or express train, added to passengers’ arrival and departure timings.
Now there’s been a reversal of fortunes as Haneda, positioned in the “Greater Tokyo” area, added a new terminal and fourth runway in 2010, attracting international airlines to consider this more convenient airport as a primary Japan base.
Recently, I needed a quick Tokyo overnight stay for a last-minute regional trip and my flight was a Haneda departure. What a revelation to be back to Haneda after being a Narita regular in years past. From the capital’s Hamamatsu-cho Station, the monorail seems almost space-age in its speed. My hotel, Villa Fontaine Premier, is connected to Terminal 3 and, I soon realise, defies expectations of the average airport sleepover. Given Haneda’s strategic location, this is a neighbourhood property, too, popular for retail, weddings and other grand-scale gatherings, and in the same precinct as Haneda Airport Garden Mall – a shopping, dining and entertainment hub in the Westfield mould.
The hotel’s 160 guestrooms across six categories are large and as stylishly equipped and decorated as any mid-city price-range equivalent. A king deluxe has views of the Tama River flowing from Tokyo Bay, window-side sofa, grey-tiled bathroom with tub and separate shower, and an almost excessive amount of space. The executive category is equally stylish and features rather funky wallpaper with night-time views of the capital and carpet patterned with the abstract grid of a Tokyo street map. Japanese design details are evident across the hotel, with references to traditional kumiko carved woodwork panels, gold leaf, floral emblems and modern interpretations of classic ricepaper lanterns and light shades.
The voluminous and slightly formal Il Ristorante on the lobby level serves a terrific breakfast and other a la carte meals; try to score a table in the window-facing row for the best views. The Throne bar on the fourth floor is more convivial than its name implies, and there’s all-day buffet dining with Japanese, Chinese and Western selections at Grand Aile on the first floor, which offers bar and table seating.
And now for the hot stuff. On the hotel’s 12th-floor roof, the highest perch in the Haneda precinct, is the 24-hour Villa Fontaine Izumi Tenku no Yu, or Garden Spa. There are men’s and women’s open-air and indoor hot springs baths, hot-stone spas, relaxation room, two types of sauna (one with hot lava stones; the other with rock salt), plus massage and facilities. Also on this level, traditional set menus are served at the izakaya-inspired Izumi Tenku Dining, where some tables have floor seating, Japanese-style. There’s something surreal about gazing across to Mt Fuji (admittedly, you’d need a clear day) as aircraft land and take off and steam rises from the hot pools.
This facility is open to non-guests for a day-pass rate and, judging by the numbers, transit passengers flow in and out at a steady space. During my visit, it isn’t crowded and the situation is so relaxing that the temptation to linger is irresistible.
The hotel invites guests for a “moment of bliss”, but try and make that several hours at the least. This lofty and unexpected onsen-style precinct rivals the air traffic control tower for views of an airport that’s back on track and busier than ever.
Jo Makito was a guest of Sumitomo Realty & Development
MORE TO THE STORY
In March, Qantas reintroduced direct flights between Melbourne and Tokyo Haneda; the year-round A330 services operate four times a week, augmenting the national carrier’s Sydney and Brisbane flights to Haneda. Japan Air Lines (JAL) flies from Australia to both Haneda and Narita. Other international airlines that have switched from Narita to Haneda for flights from their home ports in recent years – or added the airport to supplement Narita – include All Nippon Airways (ANA), Delta, British Airways, Emirates, Qatar, Singapore Airlines and THAI. For passengers connecting to or from domestic flights, transfer between the two airports is via the Kensei Narita SkyAccessdirect train, or limousine bus. Both journey options take about 90 minutes. Haneda Terminal 3 is the hub for the JR monorail service to Tokyo, with connections from Terminals 1 and 2. The service covers the Yamanote loop line; trains run every five minutes. It’s 13 minutes to Hamamatsu-cho for connections to other lines in the city, including central Tokyo, reached in about 17 minutes.
in the know
Villa Fontaine Premier Haneda is directly connected to Terminal 3 and next door to sister property Villa Fontaine Grand Haneda, with 1557 guestrooms across 12 categories, and also connected to Terminal 3. Both hotels are owned by Sumitomo Realty & Development, which has 21 hotels in greater Tokyo, Osaka and Kobe, and are part of Haneda Airport Garden mall (pictured), where more than 70 outlets and attractions include Japan Promenade, an alley-style row of 15 little shops tucked behind noren curtains on the second floor. Choose from exquisitely packaged tea, traditional food, and souvenirs such as lacquered parasols, bags, fans and matcha sweets. Izumi Tenku no Yu entry is JPY4800 ($54) an adult for non-hotel guests, including face and bath towels, robe and locker. Premier Haneda Airport guests, free of charge, but extra fees may be levied for use of additional spa facilities and services. Deluxe King rooms from about $A560 twin-share on aggregation sites; seasonal variations apply.
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