Cote de Brouilly, Tremblay, Morgon and Cuvee Keke are the go-to beaujolais right now

Not that long ago, if you ordered beaujolais in a restaurant outside France, the sommelier would look at you disdainfully.

From left: Morgon, Tremblay, Cote de Brouilly and Cuvee Keke.

Not that long ago, if you ordered beaujolais in a restaurant outside France, the sommelier most likely looked down their nose at you. Now beaujolais has become the go-to section of the smarter wine lists around town. The 2014 vintage was marvellous, producing once-in-a-generation quality and, to paraphrase a French expression, an exceptional balance of pleasure and price. Load up now as the region was devastated by hail this year.

2014 Ch. Thivin Cote de Brouilly Les sept vignes. From a producer that simply never disappoints, this wine is a blend of seven different lieux-dits of the cru. Brilliant mid-crimson colour; voluminous aroma of fragrant red sour cherry with a distinctly cool, crunchy backbone supporting it. Generous and surprisingly plush on entry, this is a beautifully weighted wine, already with delicious savoury complexity of red cherry, and mineral, with an aromatic note of violets to close. Stunning. $43. heartandsoil.com.au

2014 Moulin a Vent Les vignes du Tremblay Paul Janin. A cru of some weight. Dark youthful appearance with already quite plush aromas of ripe berry fruits with a hint of mineral. Really quite structured, there is an intensity and weight reminiscent of a good baby burgundy from the Cote de Beaune. Needs a little time to open up, at which point it will belie the old saw that no beaujolais can be successfully cellared. $49. ifw.com.au

2014 Morgon Cote du Py Jean Foillard. A serious wine from one of the masters of Beaujolais. Medium dense appearance, more akin to cool-climate pinot. An aroma of small red fruits with a cool menthol background note. Lively fruit attack on entry, with a melange of red and blue fruit flavours, this medium-bodied wine has a delicious slippery silky texture with a zingy, expansive finish. Superb. $55. andrewguard.com.au

2014 Beaujolais Cuvee Keke Kevin Descombes. This beaujolais tout court is eminently gluggable. A wine of impeccable lineage, made by the son of legendary Beaujolais producer Georges Descombes. Vibrant bright mid-cherry colour with palate-whetting aromas of small red berries, mineral and acid tang. A light-bodied red capable of slaking the heartiest thirsts. Delicious. $38. andrewguard.com.au

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