Eliza Brown’s All Saints Estate has a heavenly entrance via an avenue of elm trees

An avenue of elms provides a warm welcome at Eliza Brown’s All Saints Estate at Wahgunyah.

Eliza Brown at All Saints Estate: ‘The house was built in the 1890s and was used as staff quarters, and when we renovated it in 2013, we found French champagne corks had been used to line the ceiling.’ Picture: Natalie Ord

The driveway of Wahgunyah’s All Saints Estate, with its impressive avenue of 87 English elms each 130 years old, always provides a sense of arrival for co-owner Eliza Brown, from wherever she has ventured.

“There’s just something about driving down that entrance that I never take for granted – it’s amazing in all seasons, but it is autumn with its golden leaves that is most spectacular,” Brown says.

She recalls the first time she saw the driveway leading to the historic All Saints Estate Castle in northern Victoria with her late ­father, Peter, and his brothers in 1992 and the impression it left.

Built in 1864 by George Sutherland, the building was inspired by Scotland’s Castle of Mey and has been the cellar door and function centre since the Brown family purchased the property in 1996.

“It was a bit like a fairytale ­castle,” says Brown, who has just handed over the CEO reins to the first non-family member, Donald Mace.

She will concentrate on special projects, including major cellar door and restaurant redevelopments that are set to open at the end of January next year.

‘There’s just something about driving down that entrance that I never take for granted,’ Eliza Brown says. Picture: Georgie James Photography

Brown lives nearby at the family’s St Leonard’s Vineyard in a historic house with beautiful views to the river and nearby farmland.

“The house was built in the 1890s and was used as staff quarters, and when we renovated it in 2013, we found French champagne corks had been used to line the ceiling, so there must have been a lot of French bubbles drunk at some stage,” Brown says.

She preserved the historic front of the house, along with the wood-lined ceiling and original fireplace in the living area. Four bedrooms, a new kitchen and butler’s pantry were added.

The lounge room has stunning 360-degree views of the garden, where 100-year-old oak and gum trees take centre stage.

Brown, who has lived there since 2004, also added on a wrap­around wooden veranda and a pool and tennis court that are popular with her two daughters, Coco and Charlie.

“It’s a great area for outside entertaining and guests love the tranquil country views,” she says.

Favourite possessions include a crystal decanter owned by her grandfather John Brown – the son of John Francis Brown, who founded Brown Brothers at Milawa in 1889.

“It’s a really special keepsake and I always think of my grandparents when I use it,” Brown says.

An antique French butcher’s block made from a massive piece of well-worn timber is another special possession that Brown spotted years ago and could not resist.

The interior offers magnificent views. Picture: Natalie Ord

Art is important to her, and she has two treasured works by the late artist David Band, originally from Scotland.

“I saw his striking work when I was young and couldn’t afford any of it, so I waited till I could – I love his self-portraits, there’s just something about the simplicity and colour,” she says.

Brown and her siblings, marketing director Angela and winemaker Nick, have redeveloped the nearby historic winery, Mount Ophir Estate, which included ­restoring derelict dwellings.

“There was lots of scraping down and repainting but it was worth it. These buildings all have great soul – you see so many old buildings that are falling to bits, which is a shame,” Brown says.

The Mount Ophir winery was built in 1903 and now includes six halls and accommodation in a French provincial-style tower and winemakers’ cottages.

Brown, who moved to the country from Melbourne in 2001, says nearby Rutherglen has so much to offer.

“It is such a fabulous place to live and work. There are so many great personalities, four seasons, great wines and fabulous food – you just can’t get better,” she says.