Diversity as new British Vogue editor breaks fashion rules

Edward ­Enninful’s appointment as the next editor of British Vogue is “truly a dream come true”.

Naomi Campbell, Edward Enninful and Kate Moss party on.

Bold, surprising, provocative, deserved. These are just some of the words used to sum up Edward ­Enninful’s appointment as the next editor of British Vogue. He calls it “truly a dream come true”.

It is certainly an appointment for our times. He is the first male editor, the first black editor for the title, and just the 11th editor in its 100-year history. As a Ghanaian immigrant to Britain, the 45-year-old has long been a champion of diversity and last year was awarded an OBE for services to same in the fashion industry.

“I think it’s a bold move on (publisher) Conde Nast’s behalf, and I think within the industry it will be very well received, and hopefully very well received by readers as well,” Edwina McCann, Vogue Australia editor, told The Australian.

Enninful’s fashion credentials are impeccable. Scouted as a model as a teenager, he quickly turned to styling work and at 18 was ­appointed fashion editor of independent British magazine i-D, the youngest in the role.

He went on to be a contributing fashion editor for US Vogue and Vogue Italia, and currently is creative and fashion director of New York-based W magazine (also published by Conde Nast). Within a year of his arrival in 2011, W ­advertising revenues were up 16 per cent.

Known for his image-making skills and occasionally risque shoots, Enninful was responsible for ­images of Kate Moss as a PVC-clad nun, Rihanna as a post-apocalyptic queen, Tilda Swinton as David Bowie, and Linda Evangelista seemingly undergoing plastic surgery on an operating table.

In 2008, he spearheaded the “all black” issue of Vogue Italia in a move to end racism, or what he called the “white-out that dominates catwalks and magazines”.

As a stylist, Enninful comes from a more visual background than current British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman, who has held the role for 25 years and comes from a journalistic background, and was once editor of men’s magazine GQ.

In the statement of his appointment, Conde Nast International chief executive Jonathan Newhouse said: “In addition to his magazine editorial work, he is an adept practitioner of video and a widely followed presence on social media. He is an influential figure in the communities of fashion, Hollywood and music which shape the cultural zeitgeist.”

“Every editor has their own style and brings their own voice to the magazine,” said McCann. “I look forward to the evolution of British Vogue with Edward. He follows in the footsteps of (former British Vogue editors) Anna Wintour, Liz Tilberis and Alexandra, all incredibly talented people who’ve had quite distinctive styles and yet the magazine and business of British Vogue has gone from strength to strength.”

While male editors of women’s fashion magazines are uncommon, they are not without precedent. Emanuele Farneti was appointed editor of Vogue Italia in January; Jamie Huckbody was briefly editor of Australian Harper’s Bazaar from 2008. Enninful takes up the role from August 1.