The place: Pumphouse Point, Lake St Clair, Tasmania

Check-in

Glacial Lake St Clair, at a maximum depth of 215 metres, is Australia’s deepest. And as we drive down the gravel road leading to its shoreline, it feels like the plethora of potholes, overflowing with mud and water from the teeming rain, are almost as deep. But with our destination being Pumphouse Point, a unique, dramatically located lodge owned and operated by the NRMA (National Roads and Motorists Association), nothing can dampen our spirits. And, speaking of spirits, there’s the prospect of a premium Tasmanian whisky-tasting, which is included in our stay.

The look

The weather is wild and woolly, as are the wombats which appear to be sensibly still sporting their winter coats even after a month of spring. This lofty Lake St Clair-Cradle Mountain region is as remote and rugged as it gets on the Apple Isle. It’s this splendiferous, still snow-spattered isolation that makes the first sight of the art deco, hydroelectric pumphouse, which sits at the end of a 250-metre flume onto the lake, all the more arresting.

The room

The 1940 one-time Tasmanian Hydro-Electric Commission pumphouse and the shorehouse, converted to accommodation a decade ago, feature 18 guest rooms between them. The newest plugged-in attractions are two premium retreats, part of a $2.25 million refurbishment and development by the NRMA. Each features a king bed with premium linen, a lounge and dining area, fireplace and bathtub. One well-conceived feature, among many, are the twin glazed light shafts at the rear of the capacious, burnished timber bathroom. Retreat guests are entitled to all-inclusive dining and drinks in the Shorehouse Restaurant as well as in the suite, where there’s a minibar stocked with Tasmanian wines, craft beers, ciders and gourmet treats.

Food + drink

Despite having skipped the whisky tasting following the winding, scenic drive from Hobart Airport, there’s no shortage of world-class Tasmanian drams and wines on offer in the restaurant. Dinner in the shorehouse is a nightly set-menu affair, with excellent main dishes such as wallaby fillet, crisp polenta and asparagus accompanied by matched, quality local wines. Back in the accommodation, a “picnic larder” is supplied for lunch, which can be enjoyed in your retreat or, weather-permitting, outdoors. It’s back to the shorehouse for buffet breakfasts with a welcome flow of cafe-quality espresso coffee served by the congenial and attentive staff.

Out + about

The cold, wet weather provides the perfect excuse to stay in our bushland-enveloped retreat (really a luxury cabin), with its tree-framed views of the pumphouse and lake through floor-to-ceiling windows. But despite the weather, we’re coaxed away from our raging fireplace by a newly introduced history tour as well as an informative tasting class of premium Tasmanian chocolates (kayak and electric bike tours will begin in the warmer months). Luckily, the rain and wind pause long enough for some successful wombat and pademelon-spotting.

The verdict

Don’t be put off by those potholes or the pouring rain, as Pumphouse Point remains a truly memorable and wonderfully novel Australian wilderness experience. That’s particularly the case with the addition of the two smartly designed and equipped deluxe retreats, though 10am is too early a checkout time in this travel day and age.

Essentials

From $530 a night for a shorehouse standard room to $1747 a night for a signature retreat (two-night minimum stay, including all dining). Pumphouse Point, 1 Lake St Clair Road, Lake St Clair, Tasmania. Phone: 0428 090 436. See pumphousepoint.com.au; sixt.com.au

Our rating

★★★★½

Highlight

Even in such adverse weather, the combination of World Heritage wilderness and heritage-listed, utilitarian architecture with contemporary additions is a must-do.

Lowlight

We probably should have been alerted to the poor condition of the rain-affected access road entering the property. The local council and/or the NRMA needs to pitch in for a repair job.

The writer stayed as a guest of Pumphouse Point, SIXT Rent a Car Australia and Discover Tasmania.