Want to avoid farmed Atlantic salmon? Get hooked on these alternatives instead
Experts advise against eating the Tasmanian-farmed fish variety following recent catastrophic events. Here are some alternative – and more sustainable – catches to try instead.
Australian online seafood sustainability guide, GoodFish, has urged Australians to stop buying farmed Atlantic salmon following an “unprecedented fish kill event” in Tasmania last month.
Adrian Meder, sustainable seafood manager at GoodFish, says the fact that 1 million fish died from a bacterium outbreak sends a strong message to consumers that the Tasmanian farms are not sustainable and the fish should be avoided if possible.
“People need to change their habits, there are excellent alternatives available,” Meder says.
“These disease outbreaks are becoming more common and are linked to the oceans around Tasmania, which are becoming too warm to farm healthy salmon.”
Criticism of Tasmania’s farmed salmon industry has intensified in the past fortnight as evidence emerged that at least 8 per cent of the total annual production in the state died at the farms and was dumped at landfill sites.
This followed weeks of reports that fatty chunks of fish were washing up on beaches in the Huon Valley and on Bruny Island.
One of Australia’s largest community-run food networks has stopped supplying farmed Atlantic salmon to its members following the mass mortality event.
Food co-op Box Divvy, with 13,000 members, says it will now only source New Zealand king salmon, which is rated a more responsible choice.
Co-founder Anton van den Berg says the change was a result of pressure from members concerned about the environmental damage caused by the farms and the perceived lack of transparency in the industry.
“The operators are telling us they are changing for the better, but there is no evidence to suggest anything is improving, and the latest mortalities suggest they are not making progress,” he says.
“We are worried about habitat degradation, antibiotic use, and fish escapes and the long-term viability of the industry.”
The produce from the three main salmon farm operators in Tasmania – Tassal, Huon and Petuna – should be avoided, according to GoodFish.
To avoid confusion at the fishmonger, here is a guide to more sustainable fish alternatives:
Swap Tassie salmon for NZ salmon
Say no to: Tasmanian-farmed Atlantic salmon (Huon, Tassal and Petuna)
Why? The industry has experienced an unprecedented fish kill event of more than 1 million farmed fish. This is polluting the surrounding environment and resulting in a large release of antibiotic chemicals into the marine environment, says Meder.
There is also documented mistreatment of wildlife attracted to salmon farms – particularly seals and seabirds – in a way not seen elsewhere in Australia’s aquaculture industry.
Say yes to: New Zealand farmed king salmon
Why? King (or Chinook) salmon farmed in New Zealand are a more sustainable alternative because, according to GoodFish, they are grown efficiently in locations and at a scale that the surrounding environment is better able to cope with.
How to cook it:
- Farmed king salmon can be served the same way as the more familiar Atlantic salmon. Its orange flesh is meaty and lightly oily, so it remains moist during cooking.
- It can be pan-fried, barbecued, oven-roasted, steamed or poached. It is often best served slightly underdone and pink inside. King salmon is also suitable for raw dishes such as sushi, sashimi and ceviche.
- Try: sashimi rice bowls; this sushi-poke bowl hybrid; salmon and lettuce miang.
Swap flake for farmed barramundi
Say no to: Flake or shark
Why? This fish-and-chip shop staple is caught in a fishery in south-eastern Australia that targets a healthy population of gummy sharks, but catches sometimes include school shark, which is dangerously overfished.
GoodFish says many species of shark – including endangered species – have been mislabelled as flake in seafood retailers.
Say yes to: Australian-farmed barramundi
Why? Farmed barra are raised in dams across northern Australia or in indoor tanks in conditions suited to their natural tropical habitat, and in a way that has little impact on the surrounding environment.
How to cook it:
- The meaty, white-flesh fish is affordable and easy to find. Fillets or portions can be baked, barbecued or pan-fried. It’s also good for steaming and gently poaching, which keeps the flesh moist and tender.
- Diced barramundi will hold up in a curry or soup, remaining meaty without falling apart. Add cubes five minutes before serving to ensure they don’t overcook.
- Try: pan-fried barramundi with salsa verde (pictured above); lemon butter barramundi; red curry barramundi.
Swap orange roughy for Murray cod
Say no to: Orange roughy
Why? Orange roughy is a popular choice in fish shops. They are very long-lived fish caught by deep-sea trawlers that have damaged ancient underwater coral reefs. “It’s likely Australia’s most destructive fishery,” Meder says.
Say yes to: Australian-farmed Murray cod
Why? Murray cod are well suited to the freshwater environment and climate they are farmed in. The fish is even more versatile in the kitchen than orange roughy and is increasingly being seen in our best restaurants.
Farming occurs in dams that are also used for crop irrigation, which means the water can be used to produce food twice: the fish farm waste streams become fertiliser for crops rather than pollutants in the water.
How to cook it:
- Murray cod has a pearly white flesh and can be cooked whole or in fillets. It will remain moist when steamed or poached, and can also be pan-fried, barbecued or roasted.
- It pairs well with Asian flavours – try steaming fillets with a little soy, sesame, ginger and spring onion.
- Try: Katrina Meynink’s Murray cod with herbed butter (above); baked Murray cod with basil butter and sweetcorn; steamed Murray cod with red chilli oil.
Swap John Dory for silver perch
Say no to: Wild-caught John Dory
Why? These are mostly caught off eastern Australia in bottom trawl nets that scoop up a range of overfished species in an area impacted by rapid climate change.
Say yes to: Australian-farmed silver perch
Why? This is a native Australian freshwater fish that is farmed by small-scale farmers throughout NSW.
Silver perch are grown in indoor tanks and outdoor ponds in a way that has shown little or no impact on the natural environment.
How to cook it:
- With a mild-tasting, soft white flesh, it’s great for grilling, frying, baking, battering or crumbing.
- Fillets are often steamed in Asian cooking with strong flavours such as lemongrass and ginger.
For a full sustainability guide to Australian seafood, go to goodfish.com.au
Ardyn Bernoth is the former national Good Food editor.