The value of Australia's Champagne imports soared by 23 per cent in 2016-7. We're the sixth largest export market for Champagne, most of which is sold in for the form of discounted supermarket brands. Some of these are very good, but Champagne is much more than that. There's a plethora of excellent but little-known brands desperate to get a "share of throat", but it's hard work getting noticed. As well, the variety of styles is vast. Within the usual categories of rosé, blanc de blancs, vintage, NV and deluxe cuvees, there's an awesome array of styles. Here are three examples of widely divergent styles, two of which are off the beaten track.

Boll & Cie Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs NV, Champagne $99

Score 94

It's non-vintage but has genuine aged character, thanks to a minimum five years spent maturing on its lees. The bouquet is rich and toasty, the palate soft and pillowy, with some mid-palate richness and then a clean and very dry, long finish with a hint of grip. A high-quality wine. Cork; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Best drunk young.

Stockists include Wine Culture, Roseville Chase (NSW); Nick's Wine Merchants, Doncaster (Vic).

Alexandre Bonnet Perle Rosé Brut NV, Champagne $80

Score 92

The Bonnet style is fresh and fruit-driven, bright and youthful. Its colour is quite deep for a pink Champagne, while the understated bouquet hints at strawberry and quince. The palate has appetising acidity and a touch of food-friendly grip. The finish is clean and dry. Cork; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Best drunk young.

Stockists include European Wine Online, europeanwineonline.com.au.

Piper-Heidsieck Vintage Brut 2008, Champagne $125

Score 96

Piper NV is hugely popular but the vintage is a fraction of the company's sales, and an infinitely better wine. It's 52 per cent chardonnay and 48 per cent pinot noir. The bouquet is very toasty and mellow, layered with roasted nut and bakery aromas. It's full-bodied, rich and strong, with generous flavour and backbone, layered and persistent. Cork; 12 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Best within five years.

Stockists include Kemeny's, Bondi (NSW); David Jones, Bourke Street, Melbourne (Vic).