It's all happening in Ballarat. Hatted Catfish Thai is becoming mod-Oz Mr Jones; ex-Per Se chef Derek Boath is doing elaborate degs at tiny Underbar, the month-long Plate Up food festival kicked off last week and the hotly anticipated Pub with Two Names has opened. Previously the Peter Lalor Hotel and before that, the Royal Highlander Hotel, the ''rustic'' boozer had been bought by renowned Melbourne artists David and Yuge Bromley and stuffed to the gills with original and collected artworks.

Originally the project was to encompass an elaborately ornamented restaurant, function space and boutique apartment, but in a curve ball the accommodation has been spiked because the ever-eccentric Bromleys decided to move in.

It's still a Ballarat coup. David Bromley's distinctive bronze busts of a horse, dogs, children and rabbit abound. A gnome with a trumpet and a giant Buddha oversee your beers. There is detailed terrazzo flooring and there are multiple stencils. In the ex-stable function space for 120, Bromley has created huge, elaborate murals.

The restaurant is run by business partners Iain Gunn and chef Donatello Pietrantuono, who also own Ballarat's Carboni's Italian Kitchen. It's largely what you'd expect of a modern-Australian pub menu: an Argentinean-style grill chars Bannockburn chickens, lamb racks and whopping tomahawk steaks. Counter meals include burgers and bangers, and snacks hop continents, uniting charred corn cobs with jalapeno mayo and steamed bao with pork belly.

Open Sun-Thu 11.30am-10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-midnight.

The Pub with Two Names, corner Mair and Doveton streets, Ballarat, 03 4373 2432, thepwtn.com.au