For fans of Get Smart, good gin and drinking like it's 2010, there's a new speakeasy bar that might swish your tail.

Hidden under a kooky highrise near St Kilda Junction, The Store Room is accessed by dialling the number two on a bright orange phone in a little antechamber (a gimmick made famous by Jim Meehan's New York speakeasy PDT way back in 2007, where you gained entry via a phone booth in the adjoining hot dog shop).

On dialling, a panel covered with a photographic mural of bar stools will swoosh to the left to reveal a devil cute bar, walls peppered in mirrors, kitsch and Elvis.

There's no kitchen, so it's just drink-friendly meat and cheese boards, or a gooey jaffle on the food front. But the cocktail menu, created by resident bartenders Maddie Loughran and Andrew Lane, is a serious spirit lover's dream, heavy on unusual gins, with signature drinks like the Drunken Botanist – a seasonal Tom Collins, infused with chamomile in winter and lavender in the warmer months.

And how do you get back out? Lift the receiver on the black phone by the door. The dream of drinking like it's the noughties lives.

The Store Room is open Wed-Sun 4pm till late (licensed till 1am), 2-12 St Kilda Road, St Kilda, 03 9529 1396, thestoreroom.com.au.