One of the best ways to stress-test a friendship is suggesting a vegan meal. No matter how casually you raise the subject, ("Brunch at a new vegan cafe?" Corn emoji), what the other person inevitably hears is, "How would you like to give up your right to ice-cream, good cheese, buttery cakes and pastries for me?"

At Glebe's Gathered Kitchen, however, such tensions will evaporate upon glimpsing the cafe's pastry display. Spread along its sunlit timber counter are trays of house-made raisin swirls, pain au chocolat and berry-filled cruffins (croissant-muffins) that aren't just plant-based, but so photogenic that they would put even the most stubborn omnivores at ease.

Opened in August by Matt McLennan and his partner Pim Tummasombut​, the cafe is an extension of their background in the organic wholefoods industry. McLennan, who co-founded Taste Organic grocer, now runs the cafe's front of house, while Tummasombut helms the kitchen with her Thai-influenced menu. "Our vision is to put plant-based food out there, but we also just wanted more people to enjoy it. We're looking for that balance between health and accessibility," says McLennan.

Grab a table in the airy courtyard and start with a generously sized vegan smoothie. It won't be easy to choose between high-achieving flavours such as turmeric, cinnamon and pink salt and caramel, but the staff will help by suggesting the best non-dairy milk with it (soy, almond, coconut or rice). A strawberry and dragon fruit smoothie is tart and summery and makes a velvety match with coconut milk. Or pair a full-bodied matcha latte with soy – a worthy diversion from the nutty Sacred Grounds caffeine hits.

There's a sense of playfulness in the cafe's DNA. All through the menu, you'll find vegan-themed pop culture references (Breakfast at Viffany's), a touch of text speak (pancakessssss) and some slightly confounding wordplay (croissand santwich). However, there's plenty of seriousness in the execution of the dishes. Most things from the Kitchen's snacky, all-day breakfast menu are free from gluten and refined sugar.

Tummasombut achieves this by making as many elements on site as possible. This means opting for fresh produce over mock meats; and going down the labour-intensive route of devising her own sauces, creams, pestos, as well as egg replacer for baked sweets.

This resourcefulness speaks to the cafe's "gatherer" ethos. ("Rather than hunting, we're gathering", says McLennan.) Tummasombut's pulled jackfruit slider is a perfect example that good vegan food can have the heft and grittiness of animal protein. Dry rubbed in native pepperberry seasoning, and braised in a house-made Thai barbecue sauce; the tender, savoury fruit has the texture of pulled pork and a hickory-like smokiness that lingers on the finish. It's excellent with the crisp apple slaw, and packs enough flavour even without the lime aioli. A word of warning: these sliders are burger sized, so leave any ambition of tackling the crumbly quinoa-chickpea or marinated tofu slider for next time.

For those keen to sample a few different things on the savoury front, Breakfast at Viffany's is a good hack. At $17, you get a taste of the zingy mushroom bruschetta tossed with a kale pesto and creamy cashew fetta; a slice of avo on toast, caramelised glazed tomato and the crowd-pleasing black bean, beetroot and brown rice fritters that work magic with a bed of sweet pumpkin puree.

On a sunny weekend, you might spot off-duty joggers buying a flaky croissant or a "vacon" bagel to go (rice paper "bacon" marinated in a smoky maple sauce). Regulars, however, hang tight for the pandan lemongrass waffles.

The twin stack of fragrant, fluffy waffles have all the drama of a viral dessert, while hitting the right notes for its real-life audience. Served warm with a scoop of wattleseed-laced coconut ice-cream, it's the kind of treat that gives you a fresh appreciation for modern veganism – and any friend who brought you out of your bacon-y brunch rut.

Gathered Kitchen

99 Glebe Point Road, Glebe, gatheredkitchen.com.au

★★★★

The lowdown

Main attractions: Modern plant-based brunches, with artisanal baked goods that challenge the limits of vegan treats

Must-try: Smokey and the Jackfruit. A spicy, vegan take on the pulled pork slider, made with sticky braised jackfruit

Insta-worthy dish: The pandan and lemongrass waffles. All the drama of a social media-ready dessert with bonus fragrance factor

Coffee: Sacred Grounds Organic whole beans for milk-based coffee, $4

Tea: Organic range that includes chamomile, English breakfast, peppermint, dandelion, ginger, Earl Grey, green tea, chai, $4

Prices: Croissants $6, wraps $10-$12 and mains $12-$17

In the neighbourhood

MOSIR LIFE

57c Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, mosirlife.com

A mini, no-frills gem that curates handcrafted Japanese homeware, Mosir was converted from the garage of owners Ai Kitaya and her partner Mark Hedley. The space is as much a capsule display of beautiful objects as a celebration of original artistry. Stop by for one of a kind ceramics or a special Xmas gift.

THE CRUELTY FREE SHOP

83 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, crueltyfreeshop.com.au

If you need a one-stop-shop for all things socially responsible and cruelty-free, this is a supermarket-style store that stocks everything from Christmas foods to toothpaste and vegan pet treats. Founded by proud vegan and animal rights activist Jessica Bailey, it's the brick-and-mortar spin-off to its popular online store.

SAPPHO BOOKS

51 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, sapphobooks.com.au

Local book nerds will be familiar with this endearing, if slightly dishevelled secondhand bookstore. It's the kind of place that still hosts poetry nights and somehow has the only Alice Munro collection you're missing for $7.

THIEVERY

91 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, thethievery.com.au

Those looking for a decent spread of vego mezze (honey, macadamia haloumi; grilled sugarloaf cabbage) would do well to swing by this moody, two-storey bar for a drink and a quick bite. Dishes are Lebanese-inspired and the skilled bar staff will somehow make your cocktails (Baby Got Baklava) double as desserts.