Geelong has scored a new contemporary South American shared-style restaurant from chef Jesse Hughes (formerly Vue Grand Queenscliff). It's Hughes' first venture, the name Alma loosely translating to "soul" in Spanish and reflecting his love of South American flavours.

He's gone for an edgy look. Shonel Bryant of Nomad Styling is responsible for the fitout in shades of teal and charcoal, with black snakeskin wallpaper. The walls are lined with paste-ups of girls' faces overlaid with pink paint by Sydney artist Jessica Cochran.

The menu sees Hughes' classical training meeting flavours of the south. There are empanadas: traditional beef and egg, or black bean, corn and chipotle. Contempo ceviche dishes might involve kingfish with pink grapefruit and buffalo yoghurt sorbet, or a more Peruvian number featuring sweet potato curls.

On the big protein front, they're grilling the likes of a whole Hopkins River dry-aged rib-eye and wagyu rump cap. There's dulce de leche ice-cream, tres leches cake (that ultra-dense dessert made with three kinds of milk) and a vanilla and caramel flan.

A comprehensive wine list is dotted with plenty of South American varietals from torrontes and bonarda to malbec and there are also international craft beers. Almost by accident most of the menu is gluten-free.

A contrasting bright, light-filled upstairs function space will seat about 100.

Open Wed-Sun noon-11pm.

93-95 Ryrie Street, Geelong, 0498 012 622, almarestaurant.com.au