This world-famous market is full of tourists – and amazing things to eat

Seven Wonders within Mercat de la Boqueria, Barcelona

Spain’s most famous food market might be filled with tourists, but there are still some incredibly good things to eat.

1 Take notice of the gates

Admire the gates and the entrance.Credit: iStock

It’s easy to march into the Boqueria, Spain’s oldest market, from busy La Rambla and not even notice the wrought-iron archway at the entrance. This arch was built in 1914 and was designed by local architect Antoni da Falguera, though visitors will no doubt spot a stylistic similarity to that other Antoni: Gaudi. There’s also an interesting quirk on the signage – it gives the full name of the market, Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria, a recognition of the St Josep convent that once stood on this site, but was destroyed by fire in the early 19th century.

2 Shop for fresh produce

Fresh produce in abundance.Credit: iStock

Though most non-resident visitors are there to dine at the Boqueria’s tapas bars, it’s also worth picking through the range of high-quality fresh produce. If it’s jamon you’re after – and trust us, you should be after jamon – head directly to Mas, a stall specialising in Spain’s cured pork products. Try Graus for olive oil, and Jesus y Carmen for classic Spanish paprika. If you’re staying in accommodation with a kitchen, grab local, sustainable produce from Cal Neguit, and fresh seafood from Marisc Selecte Juani.

3 Eat the classics at El Quim

The perennially packed El Quim.Credit: Alamy

OK, now it’s time to dine. Most purveyors of cooked food in La Boqueria do tapas-style cuisine with counter seating, and that seating is in high demand, so be prepared to hang around for a while. There are several classic bars you just can’t miss, and chief among them is El Quim, near the entrance and perennially packed. The specialty here is fried eggs with sides such as baby calamari or mushrooms, which most locals wash down with a cold beer (regardless of the time of day).

4 Seek out the locals at Bar Central

Bar Central – a local favourite.Credit: iStock

Barcelona has had issues with over-tourism in recent years, in particular the area around La Rambla, to the point where legendary Boqueria tapas bar Pinotxo moved to Mercat de Sant Antoni, a more local-friendly market in another neighbourhood. If you are going to find any locals dining at the Boqueria, there’s a good chance they will be at Bar Central. It’s not the most famous spot, but the quality of the dishes is sky-high, with a particular focus on fried and grilled seafood.

5 Go all fancy at Direkte

Here’s something different for La Boqueria. Mostly, if you’re sitting down to eat here, you’re having traditional Catalan dishes in tapas-sized portions. But Direkte isn’t like that. To begin with, you can book seats – no more waiting for hours hoping to nab a spot. Food here is also served in a tasting menu, either seven dishes or 10, and the cuisine blends Catalan flavours with those of Asia, in particular Japan. This is a culinary adventure, and well worth paying a little more for. See direkte.cat

6 Feast on grilled seafood at Kiosko Universal

At Kiosko, the focus is on fresh seafood and next door is Mas, the jamon specialists.Credit: Alamy

There’s good news at Kiosko Universal, in the back corner of the market: there’s a very long bar here, as well as tall tables to either stand or sit at, which means your chances of nabbing a spot to eat are greatly increased. The dishes, again, focus on fresh seafood, and are prepared with skill and love. With a little cold white wine and good friends, you wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.

7 Escape to Santa Caterina or Sant Antoni

Plentiful produce without the crowds at Santa Caterina.Credit: Alamy

There’s no getting around the fact that La Boqueria is very touristy, despite its standing as a Barcelona icon, and the quality of its produce. If you’re hoping to find somewhere with a more local vibe, however, you don’t have to go far. Simply walk a few blocks to visit Mercat de Santa Caterina, a buzzy space in the El Born neighbourhood, or jump on the metro to Mercat de Sant Antoni, a large, recently renovated space in one of Barcelona’s most enjoyable areas.

See boqueria.barcelona/home

The writer travelled at his own expense.