Party capital: Nine must-do highlights of Osaka, Japan

The city’s reputation as Japan’s premier party town is challenged by few. Here’s how to make the most of a brief visit.

The stay

Cocktails in the stylish Zentis bar.

Tucked away in the lively Dojimahama neighbourhood, Zentis is a new and surprisingly understated hotel. Why is it surprising? Well, it’s a sister property of the Palace Hotel in Tokyo, one of the capital’s grandest properties. While there’s no moat here, there is an excellent cocktail bar and the Upstariz restaurant which cooks Japanese ingredients with French techniques. The location is a real winner, with easy access to all parts of the city thanks to the metro system. Despite its position, however, it’s whisper-quiet, with a price point that represents excellent value in a very competitive market. See zentishotels.com

The amusement park

Adults and kids alike had to be patient waiting for the highly anticipated Super Nintendo World to open on the outskirts of Osaka. When the pandemic abated sufficiently in early 2021, only Japanese residents could visit, but gaming geeks from around the world can now drop in. There are clever hidden games places around the park, as well as the predictable array of Nintendo characters, from Bowser to Princess Peach to the Mario brothers themselves. Parents can expect neither peace nor quiet, but many of the rides have been designed to be enjoyed by all ages. See usj.co.jp

The drink with a view

A lobby with wow factor.

There are many hulking buildings in Osaka, but none offer the refinement of the Conrad Hotel. One of the world’s most spectacular lobbies looks out across the city, an astonishing array of glass and modern art providing the sense of being in a giant’s gallery. Just off this area, you’ll find the 40 Sky Bar and Lounge, where an inventive menu includes several nods to the surrounding city. Nowhere else will you find the Takoyaki in the Sky, a cocktail that has a piece of the beloved street food hanging over the glass where you might expect an olive. Book well ahead if you’re hoping to drink here around sunset. See conradosaka.com

The skyscraper

At 300 metres, Abeno Harukas is Japan’s largest building.Credit: iStock

In the often laughably masculine world of tall buildings, it’s perhaps no surprise that there’s debate over the measuring process. There’s little doubt that Abeno Harukas is a huge building – at 300 metres, it’s just a little shorter than the Sydney Tower Eye – but while it’s the largest in Japan, it’s not technically the largest structure, an honour that instead belongs to the Tokyo Tower. In any case, Abeno Harukas is very much worth a visit, especially as its observation decks are at the very top and open throughout the day until 10pm, offering a chance to see Osaka shimmering from on high. See abenoharukas-300.jp

The night out

Osaka’s reputation as Japan’s premier party town is challenged by few. Even the hedonists in Tokyo struggle to make a serious argument that their city can match Osaka for informal fun any night of the week. There are different spots all over the city for a good time, but it’s hard to look past Dotonbori, which thrums with excitement and opportunities for mischief. There are warrens filled with bars and hawker stalls, often illuminated by neon signs or spotlights bouncing off huge animatronic restaurant facades. If you’re looking to take a breather from the frenetic pace out on the street, duck into the Bible Club for a peaceful cocktail. See bibleclubosaka.jp

The street local dish

Greasy and satisfying: don’t leave without trying the Osaka-style okonomiyaki pancake.Credit: iStock

Osaka’s speciality dishes often feel like they’re purposely trying to provide a stark contrast to the measured refinement on offer in neighbouring Kyoto. While they offer delicate, regal meals, here in Osaka, it’s all about enormously satisfying and often greasy food that goes fantastically well with beer. There are many dishes to choose from but perhaps the most quintessential is okonomiyaki. Translating more or less as “whatever you like cooked” it’s a curious, savory almost-pancake. The two dominant styles in Japan are Hiroshima and the local one here in Osaka. For English menus and slick service, head to Chibo in Dontonbori to give it a try. See chibo.com

The restaurant

Osaka’s reputation for street food creates a false impression that perhaps it simply doesn’t know how to be refined, but the Michelin Guide has, in recent years, sprinkled constellations of its cherished stars across the city. For a very high-end experience that aims to show another face of Osaka, head to Koryu in Dojimahama, where local chef Shintaro Matsuo works magic with local ingredients. Expect a very intimate atmosphere, no small amount of formality across the tasting menu, and an unforgettable dining experience. See koryu.net

The castle

Osaka Castle comes alive in blossom season.Credit: iStock

While many people rush to nearby Kyoto or Nara for their slice of feudal Japanese history, there’s still a small taste to be had in Osaka at its eponymous castle. Reconstructed several times over the years (most recently in the late 1990s), it still maintains a sense of what it would have looked like in its pomp, completely with its cherry blossom-filled gardens. While the modern iteration is much changed from its first construction, the building saw action in the Second World War, and in the earlier Boshin War. These histories and others are detailed in the neat on-site museum. See osakacastle.net

One more thing

Fans of Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation and international whisky will be very familiar with the Suntory name, but for anyone looking to learn about its fascinating history, the excellent Yamazaki distillery is a must. Located on the prefectural border with Kyoto, this is where Suntory’s long association with whisky first began in troubled circumstances a century ago. Drawing on a water source originally used in some of the nation’s early tea ceremonies, today, the Yamazaki drams are regarded as perhaps the finest produced anywhere in the country – and have a price tag to match. See suntory.com