Paris’ best places to eat and drink

Beyond Croque Monsieurs and macarons, the Parisian food and drink scene is overflowing with old-world classics alongside a new wave of innovative chefs who infuse global flavours into their creations. From where to get the city’s best croissant, to an unparalleled coq au vin, follow on to discover the new Paris by mouth.

Dirty Lemon

Fresh-pressed juice cocktails with a Mediterranean twist

Dirty Lemon’s charred squid: this cocktail bar’s libations are backed by a strong bar menu.

Helmed by Palestinian, Paris-trained (Septime, Frenchie, Yam’Tcha - all Michelin starred) chef and owner Ruba Khoury, Dirty Lemon offers a delightful fusion of refined culinary techniques executed across sophisticated sharing plates as well as more comforting items, (her “dirty fries” with confit lamb are a must). With an evolving cocktail menu that utilises homemade liquor infusions and cold-pressed juices, an offering of thoroughly surprising sips. For example, her take on a Wet Martini;: gin infused with yellow capsicum, acquavit, white vermouth and chive oil. Santé!
24 Rue de la Folie Méricourt, Paris. Phone: + 33 1 43 38 77 02. See dirtylemonbar.com

Le Verre Volé

An institution at the crest of the wine bar-meets-restaurant wave
Though well known and well loved, Le Verre Volé is just enough off the Canal Saint Martin to remain discreet enough to avoid becoming a tourist trap – evidenced by the French-only chalkboard menu, though servers are happy to translate. The space, lined with ceiling-high shelves decorated with bottles from every corner of France, seats less than 20, which is not the only reason it is always bursting with guests. A seasonal, simple menu allows for share plates, (from €5) to mains (from €12).
67 Rue de Lancry. Paris. Phone: [phone]. See leverrevole.fr

Le Servan

Modern French fare with an infinite natural wine list
Le Servan is nestled at the corner of Rue Saint Maur, a neighbourhood famous for its buzzing atmosphere and innovative eateries. Formerly a dive bar of sorts, the space has been refurbished by sisters Tatiana and Katia Levha. The former, drawing from her background at renowned establishments such as L’Arpège and L’Astrance, has crafted a menu blending French and East Asian cuisine that is both fresh and spontaneous, with ingredients that are simple, yet impeccable. If you’re feeling intimidated by the vast wine list, ensure your meal is paired by one of the in-the-know sommeliers.
32 Rue Saint-Maur, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See leservan.fr

Passerini

A chef’s favourite go-to for pasta in Paris

Passerini: where some of Paris’ best Italian chefs swing by for the homemade pasta.Credit: Mickael A. Bandassak

A discreet gem on a neighbourhood corner that has captivated food enthusiasts near and far, (this writer has it on good authority that some of Paris’ best Italian chefs swing by for the homemade pasta). With a warm and inviting atmosphere, this Italian trattoria crafted by chef Giovanni Passerini offers a weekly menu crafted from the best of the season. Ensure you book through the website well ahead of time. If you can’t get a reservation, head next door to Pastificio Passerini (their fine Italian deli) for freshly made pastas and sauces to take home.
65 Rue Traversière, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See passerini.paris

Folderol

Natural wine with a side of ice-cream
As the mercury rises in Paris and one begins to feel the effects of the French’s aversion to air conditioning, Folderol offers a kind of double whammy of the cooling-down kind. With a crisp natural wine in one hand and an innovatively-flavoured ice cream (sesame brownie, wedding cake, olive oil, spicy watermelon) in another, guests often spill out from around the horseshoe-shaped bar counter to mingle on the pavement outside. Within spitting distance of Republique and the Canal Saint-Martin nearby, it has become a local favourite since opening in early 2021.
10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See folderol.com

Chez Janou

A paradise for Pastis-lovers
Tucked away in a quiet street just blocks from the picturesque Places des Vosges, this charming and authentic French bistro and its Provencal-inspired decor boasts the city’s most extensive pastis menu, celebrating the traditional anise-flavoured alcohol from the south of France known for its refreshing and herbal qualities. While they don’t take reservations, you can have a drink on the terrace while you wait to discover bistro classics like a coq au vin, magret de canard or shrimp flambée in Pastis. Not to be missed is the rich chocolate mousse, served spoon by spoon from an immense punchbowl.
2 Rue Roger Verlomme, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See chezjanou.com

Jin

Paris’ Lost in Translation moment

Michelin-starred establishment Jin brings the essence of Japan to Paris.Credit: Jin/Facebook

An intimate restaurant tucked away on a quiet street off the glitzy Rue Saint-Honoré, that redefines the art of sushi with only 12 seats surrounding a chestnut bar, guests are treated to a masterclass in that deconstructs the Japanese dish into exactingly constructed bites that are crafted in an open workstation. Chef Watanabe’s Michelin-starred establishment brings the essence of Japan to Paris, offering a haven for sushi enthusiasts seeking a transcendent gastronomic journey. Guests are offered two choices, either the ‘omakase’ tasting menu (€135) or the sushi-only menu (€65) are available with little-to-no elaboration. However, if you can swing it, the omakase leaves it to the chef to work with the best of his seasonal, fresh ingredients, unlikely to disappoint.
6 Rue de la Sourdière, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See jin-paris.com/en

Tawlet

A low-key Lebanese canteen-style restaurant
At Tawlet Paris, a rich tapestry of Lebanese home cooking takes centre stage, showcasing the variations across the regions’ cuisines. Beyond traditional mezes and restaurant fare, Tawlet celebrates heritage recipes and flavours passed down through generations of Lebanese mothers and grandmothers. Throughout the week, for lunch and dinner service, you can enjoy a ‘bottomless’ buffet (Tip: pace yourself. Take less and eat slower than you want to!) as well as a ‘Beirut Brunch’ on weekends.
2 Rue de la Fontaine au Roi, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See soukeltayeb.com

Tapisserie

The dessert counter of the Michelin-starred Septime

Tapisserie: a haven for pastry aficionados, the Clamatarte is a must-try.Credit: Benjamin Schmuck

Drawing on the expertise of the team behind the renowned, Michelin-star Septime further down the road, Tapisserie is a haven for pastry aficionados seeking innovative sweet treats executed with the precision of a Starred chef. From delicate tarts embellished with seasonal fruits to intricately layered pastries with velvety fillings, Tapisserie delivers a symphony of flavours and textures. Must-tries include Chou à la flouve or the famous Clamatarte with maple syrup and fresh cream.
65 Rue de Charonne. Paris. Phone: [phone]. See tapisserie-patisserie.fr

Early June

International guest residencies in a low-lit, informal atmosphere
In a quiet street just off the Canal Saint Martin, Victor Vautier and Camille Machet have been hosting the world’s most exciting chefs as a ‘pop up’ concept in their candle-lit natural wine bar where each designs their own menu using seasonal French produce and the restaurant’s open kitchen. The atmosphere is convivial and cool, closer to a buzzy dinner party with weekly menus that are a-la-carte, accompanied by a wine list from independent wine producers. Get there early to secure a table, reservations are only possible for groups over four.
19 Rue Jean Poulmarch, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See early-june.fr

Le Relais de L’entrecote

Worth the wait

For classic steak frites, you can’t beat Le Relais de l’Entrecôte.

When there is only one thing on the menu, you know it’s a dish that has been perfected. There is often a little waiting time - which has been known to last up to 90 minutes - so do your best to get there early (it’s legal to drink on the streets in France so take a flute of champagne or wine with you for the wait). Once inside, all there is to decide is how you want your steak cooked and within minutes, one of the snappily-dressed waitresses will plonk down a small plate of salad leaves with a tangy mustard sauce, swiftly followed by a heap of french fries and a generous serving of steak in a delicious (and incredibly secret) sauce. It’s bottomless-style so you can have as many plates as you want, (although one is generally enough!) but be aware each additional plate has a fee.
15 Rue Marbeuf, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See relaisentrecote.fr

Cedric Grolet

Possibly the best croissant in Paris
Far be it for me, an Australian, to dictate the best croissant in Paris, but after six years of sampling, and insights from locals and restaurateurs, one address continues to come up, that of Cedric Grolet. The executive pastry chef at Le Meurice, (part of the Dorchester Collection) and founder/owner of his eponymous bakery, you may know him for his viral Tik Tok, mind-bending patisserie creations that rival art pieces. He is best known for creating desserts that look uncannily like the fruits from which they are made. However, if you’d like a more officially-ranked croissant, the 2023 winner of the best butter croissant in Paris went to Chez Meunier.
35 Avenue de l’Opéra, Paris. Phone: [phone]. See cedric-grolet.com/en