Country town with no traffic lights continues to top tourism awards

With no traffic lights and a population of just over 13,000, Mudgee could easily be dismissed as just another Aussie country town. But this charmer, a 3.5-hour drive from Sydney, punches well above its weight in terms of tourism – in fact, it won Australia’s Top Tourism Town so many times, it was inducted into the National Hall of Fame, the first town to have that honour. Great wine, artisanal produce and bucolic scenery – what’s not to love? Here’s how to make the most of your visit on a three-day itinerary.

DAY ONE

Morning

Southern Cross Kayaking operate seasonally at Ganguddy on weekends and school holidays.Credit: Mudgee Tourism

Get an early start and take the scenic drive through Capertee Valley – the widest canyon in the world, one kilometre wider than the Grand Canyon – to Ganguddy in the Wollemi National Park. Previously known by the less-fortunate moniker of Dunn’s Swamp, this stunning five-kilometre waterway on the Cudgegong River is best explored by kayak, available for hire or on a guided tour with Southern Cross Kayaks between October and April. Glide through reed beds beneath soaring pagoda formations, spotting wildlife and ancient Wiradjuri art on sandstone overhangs. A one-hour hire allows paddlers to adequately explore upstream or downstream, with two hours required to explore the whole waterway at a leisurely pace.

Afternoon

Outdoor dining at 29 Nine 99 Yum Cha and Tea House in Rylstone.Credit: Destination NSW

From Ganguddy, it’s a 20-minute drive to Rylstone, where you’ll find the quirkiest dumpling house at the delightful 29 Nine 99.

Located in the sandstone Bridge View Inn dating back to 1865, this yum cha restaurant and tea house is helmed by chef Nalan, who, after moving to Rylstone from Beijing in 2001 with her artist husband Reg Buckland, started making dumplings to keep herself busy. “I was getting bored staring at the trees, the rocks and kangaroos,” she jokes.

Open seven days a week for lunch, 29 Nine 99 (named after the couple’s wedding date, with nine considered a lucky number in China) offers a daily selection of dumplings handmade by Nalan, including chicken and coriander, pork and fennel, crab and snow pea and king prawn in rice flour, served with a choice of imported Chinese teas (sourced by Nalan’s sister back in Beijing). Just be sure to bring cash with you.

Evening

Adults-only luxury glamping at Sierra Escape, Mudgee.

After picking up wine and nibbles in Mudgee, arrive at Sierra Escape in time for sunset from the balcony of your glamping tent, one of five occupying hilltops on this stunning 113-hectare property 20 minutes north of the town. To wind down after the long drive, book a massage with local masseuse Virginia from Energy Healing Massage, or soak in the outdoor bathtub as kangaroos and the resident sheep herd meander past. There’s an outdoor fire pit for crisp nights under a jewel-box sky, or stay toasty in front of the indoor combustion heater. Sierra Escape was recently honoured with a gold award for unique accommodation at the Qantas Australian Tourism Awards.

DAY TWO

Morning

Take off with Balloon Aloft.Credit: Mudgee Tourism

Rise before dawn and make your way to the designated launch site for a Balloon Aloft sunrise flight over Mudgee. As you glide silently along the breeze, watch the patchwork of vines and farmland come to life as the morning mist lifts, before a thrilling landing.

The importance of the arts in this tight-knit community is showcased at the Mudgee Arts Precinct, with a large gallery space supporting local artists, a cultural workshop space, and a sculpture walk starting in Lawson Park West and continuing along the Cudgegong River back to the arts precinct. The facility also houses the tourist information centre, and is a great place to pick up local produce and wines midweek when some cellar doors are closed to the public.

Afternoon

For the town’s best pastries head to Althea by Zin in Mudgee.

Feast on delicious pastries, bread or pizza in the sunny courtyard of Althea by Zin, an artisanal bakery and patisserie created by Kim Currie, head chef at the hatted Zin House at Lowe Family Wine Co. Named after Currie’s mother, who passed her knowledge of baking down through the generations, this French-inspired bakery uses fresh, local ingredients including herbs and vegies straight from the Zin House gardens.

Meanwhile, at the Lowe vineyard, winemaker David Lowe leads fascinating tours of the property, explaining his pioneering methodology behind his organic and biodynamic small-batch wines. After the tour, relax at the picturesque cellar door over a local-produce grazing plate and a tasting of the spectacular Lowe range, including the award-winning Zinfandel and Italian varietals such as Ansonica and Pecorino, planted in what David calls his “climate change” vineyard, the Latin Quarter.

Evening

Wander the gardens between dishes at The Zin House.Credit: Destination NSW

Indulge in Mudgee’s premier dining experience at The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide hatted The Zin House, open for lunch Friday to Monday and for dinner Friday and Saturday. The set menu by Kim Currie heroes local and home-grown produce, with the opportunity to wander through the gardens and meet the chefs all part of the leisurely culinary journey.

Midweek dining options are more limited; there’s a pub on practically every corner in Mudgee, or try the town’s newest farm-to-table restaurant, the slick and modern Gigi’s in the revamped Clairfield Hotel. Finish the evening at Roth’s Wine Bar, which has been serving local drops for over 100 years. More than 100 wines are available by the bottle, with a weekly selection of local wines by the glass.

DAY THREE

Morning

Enjoy a breakfast bowl on the Alby + Esthers terrace.

After a morning dip in the stunning infinity pool overlooking the undulating landscape of Sierra Escape, continue your Mudgee wellness journey at Sense of Solis, a new business offering infrared sauna and ice bath sessions. The high-tech saunas include touch-screen technology and connectivity to Spotify playlists or Netflix; then, after 30 minutes of sweat, shock the system with an icy plunge, with a choice of 10 degree or 5 degree baths.

Then head to Alby + Esthers, located on a cobblestone terrace under a sprawling grapevine off Market Street. Try their breakfast bowl with house-made labne, local smoked chorizo and free-range poached eggs, or one of their legendary jaffle specials.

Afternoon

Grazing plate at Vinifera – order some wine to go.Credit: Mudgee Tourism

Before hitting the highway for home, stock up on Mudgee’s finest at one of its 35-odd cellar doors, many of them conveniently located within 10 kilometres of the township. Personal favourites include the modern tasting room and sprawling picnic lawns of Bunnamagoo; the organic Spanish varietals of Vinifera; and the almost 50-year-old family vineyard of Robert Stein, now helmed by his grandson Jacob. Linger over a Mediterranean-style lunch at Pipeclay Pumphouse (open Friday to Sunday from noon or Thursday to Saturday for dinner); or midweek, snack on food truck fare accompanied by a wine tasting at the rustic cellar door.

The writer was a guest of Sierra Escape, 29 Nine 99, Lowe Family Wine Co, Sense of Solis, Gigi’s and Alby + Esthers.