By Melanie Grant
Like any area of health, myths abound when it comes to skincare. From brands that entice us using clever marketing claims to therapists and salespeople who play on our insecurities to sell unnecessary treatments, products that don’t deliver on their promises are everywhere.
Throughout my career, I’ve heard every sort of skincare myth. Here, I’ve rounded up a few of the most common so I can debunk them for you once and for all.
Credit: Trunk Archive/Snapper Images
The myth: Pricier products equal better results.
The truth: In my opinion, the best skincare products cover the whole price spectrum. Many expensive brands invest a lot of money in marketing rather than developing the actual formulas. In fact, most skincare ingredients aren’t that expensive to produce. The high costs might be because of expensive and time-consuming innovations, which when combined with marketing or production costs result in a higher price point. It is often possible to find a similar product with the same calibre of ingredients for much cheaper. Do keep in mind, though, that anything that’s too cheap is also probably too good to be true. I do think it’s worth investing if you find products that work for your skin type. It may be that a much more expensive product turns out to be the right one for you. As always, research the ingredients in the product and try not to get sucked in by fancy marketing.
The myth: Eye creams are a waste of money.
The truth: The skin around our eyes is incredibly sensitive; it’s thinner and more fragile than the skin on the rest of our face. This is also the first place that starts to develop signs of ageing. Traditional moisturisers are often too heavy to effectively treat this sensitive area, and sometimes they can even irritate the skin. Eye creams have been developed to target this specific region for a reason.
The myth: Retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) thin your skin.
The truth: No, they don’t. In fact, the opposite is true. Retinoids and acids work to promote cell turnover, which makes the skin thicker and more resilient over time. A downside is that using these products can make you more sensitive to the sun, and that’s why it’s crucial to wear SPF when applying these ingredients.
The myth: Sunscreen in make-up is enough.
The truth: Make-up with sunscreen is often thought of as a catch-all, and a license not to wear a dedicated sunscreen product. However, SPF in make-up often isn’t strong enough to protect against both UVA and UVB rays. Even if it were, you’d have to apply up to 10 times more foundation than you usually would in order to adequately protect yourself. Instead, layer a broad-spectrum sunscreen underneath your make-up each morning and reapply when you’re outside throughout the day.
The myth: That “squeaky clean” feeling after washing is good.
The truth: Feeling squeaky-clean after cleansing is not good. It means your skin has been stripped of all its natural oils. Look for a cleanser that hydrates while it cleans. Your skin should feel fresh and clean after cleansing but not tight or squeaky.
The myth: Organic or natural skincare products are best.
The truth: Some organic and natural skincare is great, especially for those who don’t struggle with many skin concerns, but some can be irritating and clog pores. Botanicals, essential oils and plant extracts can be irritants, so those with sensitive skin are better off selecting lab-made products formulated for sensitive skin. Some natural oils, such as grapeseed, rosehip and marula oil, are great for treating skin concerns and can work wonders when used in tandem with chemically produced ingredients.
The myth: Using more products will improve your skin.
The truth: The adage “the more, the merrier” does not apply when it comes to skincare routines. Layering products can result in hundreds (yes, hundreds!) of ingredients being applied to your skin. This can lead to sensitivity, irritation, reactions, congestion and acne for starters, and can completely overload the skin. Layering too many acids can upset the skin’s microbiome and precious acid mantle. This can result in dry, dull and irritable skin for the foreseeable future.
The myth: Pores open and close.
The truth: Pores can appear smaller and larger for several reasons, including being clogged and sun-damaged, but they don’t open the way a door does. All pores are open – they are literally the openings from our skin into the deeper layers. There are ways to minimise their appearance, but you can’t get rid of them or completely close them.
The myth: You don’t need to wear sunscreen in the winter.
The truth: UV rays are present every day of the year. It’s true that the sun is out for longer in the summer, and the rays can be more intense, but wearing sunscreen no matter the weather or time of year is crucial. In fact, I’d go so far as to say that not wearing sunscreen in winter can undo all the hard work from diligent sunscreen use in summer.
The myth: Those with oily skin should avoid oil.
The truth: Oily skin is an indication that you have an overproduction of oil or sebum. By stripping all your natural oils away with harsh cleansers or intense active serums, you can actually cause the cells to produce more oil, making the problem worse. Instead, add new, good oils to the skin with a proper regime that allows the oil to be controlled and balanced – neither too little nor too much.
Edited extract from The Modern Guide to Skin Health (Macmillan Australia) by Melanie Grant, out June 28.
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