Warragul

Victoria is spoilt when it comes to regional dining. But a destination restaurant that’s as much for locals as out-of-towners? That’s rare.

Messmates, on a sleepy strip of shops, is imbued with warmth. It starts with the enthusiastic welcome, and extends to the soothing fitout and unfussy but considered cooking.

Perhaps the sincerity comes down to the family connection. Messmates is run by siblings Chris and Jodie Odrowaz and their respective partners Jess Odrowaz and Michael Clarke, who divvy up roles in the kitchen and on the floor.

Chris and Jodie’s dad grows organic produce for the 50-seater at his nearby farm – it’s his Swiss chard in the rustic cheese pie and his rhubarb atop the outstanding custard tart – and just about everything else comes from nearby.

Another bonus for city slickers: it’s a short walk from the train station. Messmates is country hospitality, reborn for the 2020s.