Brunswick

This three-page list has as much energy as Spontana itself. It balances frivolity, harmony and indisputable quality, and is also accessible: two-thirds of the wines are under $100.

There are rare cuvees, wild fermented drops and clean examples of familiar varieties, but all stand up to the heat, funk and herbs of the northern Thai menu.

Barrel-aged and sour beers take on barbecued meat. Multi-dimensional cocktails celebrate citrus and artisanal spirits. A dedicated section salutes spontaneous fermentation, including non-alcs.

It’s irresistible fun – no wonder, with the crew from Mr West bottleshop involved.