There’s drama built into any night at Apollo, from the tunnel-like passageway you pass through before entering to the thrill of nabbing a spot.

Bartenders wearing ties and chore coats mix drinks with the intensity of lab scientists. Solicitous staff ferry frosty Gibsons and champagne cocktails on trays, joined by pint-size prawn sandwiches and cut-glass bowls of chip’n’dip. It’s possible everyone is having such a good time because they know their seat – one of just 30 – is so highly coveted.

As it enters its second year, Apollo hasn’t just found its rhythm, it’s set the pace for other cocktail bars around the city.