Sweet table wines are something of an afterthought these days. After the early 1980s, when Australian winemakers discovered botrytis cinerea – the mould that concentrates the grapes of Sauternes and enables luscious sweet wines to be made – there was a flurry of activity. Every winery seemed to be following De Bortoli and attempting a botrytis wine, especially in the Riverina, where botrytis semillon is still a big thing. Perhaps we all got a sugar overload, or maybe we were using them the wrong way because their popularity waned just as quickly. People habitually served these wines with dessert, whereas cheese is arguably a better match. To succeed with dessert, the food's sweetness must be carefully matched to the wine's. Cheeses are less demanding. And many cheeses work.

Margan Botrytis Semillon 2021, Hunter Valley, $40 (375ml)

Score 91

Deep golden colour with a slight amber tinge; the bouquet pungent and full, with snuffed-candle and noble rot characters, the palate full and round and unctuous, with lots of glycerol and quite a high level of sweetness. The tannins dry the after-palate nicely, adding a pleasant tinge of bitterness. Screw-cap; 10 per cent alcohol.

Ageing Drink now to eight years.

Stockists Corkscrew Cellars, Tom's Cellars, Liquor Emporium (NSW); margan.com.au

Juniper Botrytis Riesling 2019, Margaret River, $27 (375ml)

Score 92

Deep bright yellow colour; aromas are restrained and flowery, with traces of honey and candied citrus peel, plus a little smoky development, while the palate is bright, crisp and lively thanks to fresh acidity and some tannin grip. There's substantial sweetness, but it's dried off at the finish by phenolics and acidity. A very attractive sweet riesling. Screw-cap; 11.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to eight years.

Stockists Cambridge Cellars, Caulfield North (Vic); Summer Hill Wine Shop, Summer Hill (NSW)

Prophet's Rock Pinot Gris Vin de Paille 2019, Central Otago $89 (375ml)

Score 95

The colour is off-white to straw, typical of pinot gris; the bouquet is spicy and gently honied, with a fresh green-herb overlay, this combination highly appealing. Medium-sweet and light on its feet, the wine has moderate sweetness without syrupiness, the finish clean and refreshing. A lovely wine in a medium-sweet, intense, subtly rich, non-botrytis style. Cork; 11 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to eight years.

Stockists Le Pont Wine Store, Milson's Point (NSW); Le Pont, South Melbourne (Vic)