English is a living language, so I suppose we ought to get used to new terms that arrive from time to time. In the weird world of wine, new descriptors have arrived in a welter in recent years. Some wines are said to be "textural". Others display "crystalline minerality". What do they mean? Who knows? But one term that does appeal to me personally is "pinosity". It's difficult to pinpoint what pinosity is, but those who love red wines made from pinot noir have a fair idea. Pinosity is what makes pinot noir so different to all others. It's what makes pinot unique, an enthralling combination of fragrance, wildness, softness, sexiness, quiet complexity, delicious drinkability and seductive mystery.

Rochford Latitude Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2019, $19-$21

Score: 90

A bright ruby-coloured drop, aromatic with cherry kernel, plum, herbal and sappy varietal hints. Oak is barely there, and it tastes succulent and satin-smooth, with a dimension of grainy textural interest underpinning juicy drinkability. (13.7 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include: The Wine Store at Bonds Corner, Northbridge (NSW); Brighton Bay Cellars, Brighton (Vic).

Hurley Vineyard Lodestone Pinot Noir 2018, $67-$70

Score: 95

Refined Mornington Peninsula pinot that grows dimensions as you sip. Cherry fruit, sappy notes, musky deli scents and subtle toasty oak lead through a seamless, silky mouthful of lingering flavour and mouth-watering balance. Delicious. (13.4 per cent alcohol; Diam closure.)

Ageing? Drink over 10 years.

Stockists include: Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne (Vic); Vaucluse Cellars, Vaucluse (NSW).

Levantine Hill Colleen's Paddock Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016, $195-$200

Score: 96

A "pinosity" tour de force. Suggestions of sour cherry, berry shortcake, classy oak, game and undergrowthy notes merge perfectly. It's superbly concentrated, complex, full bodied and multi-layered, ripe in tannins, lingering and aromatic. (13 per cent alcohol; Diam closure.)

Ageing? Drink over 15 years.

Stockists include: Moncur Cellars, Woollahra (NSW); The Wigs Cellar, Melbourne (Vic).