Grenache is a grape that's been grown in Australia as long as any wine grape, but until recently it has not really been celebrated.

It's now carving its own niche as an early drinking red wine with a distinctive personality, but perhaps its best use is in rosé. You don't have to look far in France to find a grenache rosé. It's one of my favourite rosé grapes; pinot noir is another.

When well made, it's naturally light in colour and tannin, has ripe fruit aroma and flavour (no greenness) at lower alcohol levels, is softly textured and very slurpable. It can also produce a wine that's more than simple grapy flavour, thanks to more complex winemaking techniques such as fermentation in barrels.

Semprevino Grenache Rosé 2020, McLaren Vale, $25

Score 92

Sempre vino means more wine, or always wine. Co-owner Russell Schroder is chief winemaker at Tinlins, a leading contract winemaker in McLaren Vale.

With a pale salmon pink colour, this has an appealing spicy, nutty bouquet with a hint of strawberry and a degree of complexity, which is all carried through to the mouth. It's intense and full, the finish dry with a little tannin grip. A really tasty rosé: you'll want several glasses. Screw-cap; 13.3 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Best drinking now to two years.

Stockists include Purvis Cellars, Surrey Hills (Vic); semprevino.com.au.

De Bortoli Grenache Wizardry Grenache Rosé 2020, Heathcote, $23

Score 93

De Bortoli's superb and modestly priced Grenache Wizardry range comprises a red, a white (grenache blanc) and this rosé, which is a benchmark for Aussie rosé.

It has a very pretty light coral-pink colour, and the bouquet is likewise attractive: strawberry, raspberry fruit with a nutty barrel-ferment undertone. It has intensity, weight and persistence, rich fruit and generous flavour without sacrificing finesse. A serious rosé. Screw-cap; 13.2 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to four years.

Stockists include Ritchie's Stores, Mount Eliza & Ringwood North (Vic); Camperdown Cellars, Sydney.

François Lurton La Mule Rosé 2020, Provence, $10.99

Score 86

It's not pure grenache but a blend of grenache and cinsault, from the Coteaux Varois en Provence.

The colour is a light coral-pink; the aromas are floral and herbal, with some leaf and cassis-like notes. The palate is soft and dry, and may seem low in acidity compared to many Aussie rosés, but the corollary is softness and pleasing texture. It's a very appealing wine at the price, typical of the remarkable bargains at Aldi. Screw-cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Best now to two years.

Stockists include Aldi stores that sell liquor.