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The secret to making ‘the most ballsed-up dish in cafe culture’ at home

Cheese experts Ellie and Sam Studd share four cheesy recipes from their new book, including the ultimate croque-monsieur.

Ellie and Sam Studd

Cheese offers an infinite diversity of aromas, flavours, types, textures, colours and shades, say experts Ellie and Sam Studd.

The siblings, who inherited their passion for cheese from their father, prominent cheese specialist Will Studd, believe cheese represents so much more than nourishment.

“It encapsulates human craftsmanship and culinary artistry in its purest form,” they write in their new book The Best Things in Life are Cheese.

“With one bite, cheese can teleport us to the Franche-Comte mountain pastures in full bloom, with tinkling cowbell in the distance … or it can transport us to an Italian nonna’s kitchen, where she makes a simple ricotta for her evening pasta.”

Here are five recipes from their new collection to try at home.

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Photo: Lauren Bamford

Perfect croque-monsieur

This may be the most ballsed-up dish in cafe culture. In theory, it’s good. It doesn’t seem like something you can truly make a mess of, but often in restaurants the execution is robustly disappointing. You may just have to take matters into your own hands. Thankfully, our version won’t leave you with the sour taste of a second-rate sanga.

INGREDIENTS

  • 25g unsalted cultured butter
  • 25g plain flour
  • 175ml full-cream milk
  • sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
  • generous grating of nutmeg
  • 220g gruyere or comte, finely grated
  • 4 slices of sourdough
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 180g sliced honey-roasted ham
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METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 220C fan-forced (240C conventional).
  2. Melt the butter in a small saucepan and add the flour. Gently stir for 2-3 minutes, until it smells biscuity and resembles wet sand. Gradually add the milk, one ladleful at a time and whisking constantly to avoid lumps, then bring to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes or until thickened. Remove the pan from the heat and season the bechamel with salt, pepper and the nutmeg. Stir in 50g of the grated gruyere or comte until melted and set aside.
  3. Preheat a grill to high. Place the sourdough on a large baking tray and lightly toast one side under the grill.
  4. Spread the untoasted side of two slices with the mustard, then add the ham and three-quarters of the remaining gruyere or comte. Top with the remaining sourdough, toasted side up.
  5. Spread the top of each sandwich with a large spoonful of the bechamel and sprinkle over the remaining gruyere or comte. Bake in the oven for 10-12 minutes, then finish under the grill for 2-3 minutes, until the cheese is golden brown.

Serves 2

Turn your monsieur into a madame

If up want to turn this monsieur into a madame, you just need to add eggs. Fry two eggs, sunny-side up, in some butter for 2 minutes or until the whites are cooked through. Top the sandwiches with the fried eggs once they come out from under the grill, season with black pepper and serve immediately.

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Studd siblings recommend: We love La Couronne Fort-Aged Comte

Photo: Lauren Bamford

Japanese-style crispy spiced halloumi sandwich

To us, this is kind of like a Filet-O-Fish burger from Maccas, but in the best possible way.

INGREDIENTS

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  • 75g (½ cup) plain flour
  • 1-2 tsp cayenne pepper, to taste
  • 2 tsp garlic powder
  • sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 eggs, lightly beaten
  • 60g (1 cup) panko breadcrumbs
  • 2 x 250g packets of Cypriot sheep and goat halloumi, drained and patted dry
  • vegetable oil, for cooking
  • 8 slices of white bread or Japanese shokupan (milk bread)
  • 1 cup shredded iceberg lettuce

Spicy mayo

  • 125g (½ cup) Kewpie mayonnaise
  • ¼ cup chopped sweet dill pickles
  • 2 tbsp Sriracha chilli sauce
  • sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD

  1. To make the spicy mayo, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
  2. Combine the flour, cayenne pepper and garlic powder in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Place the lightly beaten eggs in another bowl and the panko breadcrumbs on a large plate.
  3. If you’re using Aphrodite Halloumi (see below), cut the cheese in half horizontally. If you’re using blocks of halloumi, cut the cheese into thick slices. Coat the halloumi in the spiced flour, then dunk in the egg and finally coat in the panko breadcrumbs.
  4. Heat enough oil to cover the base of a large non-stick frying pan. Cook the halloumi for 2-3 minutes each side or until golden brown, then transfer to a wire rack to drain.
  5. Spread the bread with the spicy mayo, top half the bread slices with the shredded lettuce and halloumi, then sandwich together with the remaining bread. Using a serrated knife, trim the crusts off the sandwiches and cut in half to serve.
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Makes 4

Studd siblings recommend: We love Aphrodite Mixed Milk Halloumi

Photo: Lauren Bamford

Easy ricotta gnocchi with tomato sugo and fresh basil

These gnocchi are sooooo light and fluffy, and damn easy to make! TBH, we have stuffed up homemade gnocchi a few times, but we have mastered these like true champions, so consider them foolproof. Because there are so few ingredients in this recipe, it’s worth spending the money on the more expensive Italian cherry tomatoes, plus some high-grade parmigiano reggiano. Don’t freak out about the gnocchi dough – it’s meant to be a moist batter, so you only need a small amount of flour to bind it. Use too much and the gnocchi will taste floury.

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INGREDIENTS

  • iced water
  • 500g fresh ricotta
  • 2 eggs, lightly beaten
  • 100g (⅔ cup) plain flour
  • 1 tsp sea salt flakes
  • 60ml (¼ cup) extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed with the back of a knife
  • 3 x 400g cans Italian cherry tomatoes
  • small bunch of basil, leaves picked
  • 50g parmigiano reggiano, finely grated
  • Japanese chilli oil or chilli flakes, to serve (optional)

METHOD

  1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil over medium-high heat. Get a bowl of iced water ready and place it next to the stove.
  2. In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, egg, flour and salt and gently mix until a sticky, moist dough has formed. Working in batches, gently drop heaped teaspoons of the dough into the boiling water. The gnocchi will initially sink, but then rise to the top when they are ready – this will only take 5 minutes. As soon as they rise, scoop out the gnocchi using a slotted spoon and add to the iced water.
  3. Drain and wipe out the saucepan, then return it to medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and most of the basil and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 3-5 minutes, until slightly thickened.
  4. Using the slotted spoon, carefully transfer the gnocchi to the sauce and simmer for a further 3-5 minutes, until heated through.
  5. Divide the gnocchi and sugo among serving bowls, top with the parmigiano reggiano, remaining basil leaves and chilli of your choice, then serve.

Serves 4

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Studd siblings recommend: We love Cravero Parmigiano Reggiano

Photo: Lauren Bamford

Mexican-style corn and feta fritters

Good moods only after eating this one. It’s a meal that teleports you to where you’d rather be. Sometimes we serve it with a side of smoked salmon or prawns. Please eat in a patch of sun, if available.

INGREDIENTS

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  • 4 sweetcorn cobs (about 1kg), husks and silks removed, kernels stripped
  • 250g Greek barrel-aged feta, crumbled
  • 75g (½ cup) self-raising flour
  • 15g (¼ cup) panko breadcrumbs
  • sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 eggs, lightly beaten
  • small bunch of chives, cut into 3cm pieces
  • 60g pickled jalapenos, chopped
  • 60ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
  • ½ bunch of coriander, leaves picked and chopped
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • 2 avocados, quartered
  • 1 lime, quartered
  • green chilli hot sauce of your choice, to serve

METHOD

  1. Place the sweetcorn kernels, 125g of the feta, the flour and panko in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and mix well to combine. Add the egg, chives and jalapenos and stir until a batter forms.
  2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large non-stick frypan over medium heat. Working in batches, scoop ½ cup portions of batter into the pan and gently flatten with the back of a spoon. Cook for 3-4 minutes each side, until golden brown. Continue with the remaining oil and batter.
  3. Stack the fritters on top of each other and scatter the remaining feta and the coriander over the top. Sprinkle the paprika over the avocado and season with salt and pepper. Serve the avo alongside the fritters, with the lime quarters and hot sauce.

Serves 4

Pro fritter tips

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• Once you dollop the fritter mixture into the pan, use the back of a spoon or a spatula to help you flatten and shape the fritter into a circle.

• Fritters take time, so don’t rush. They need 3-4 minutes each side to cook through and turn golden. If your pan is too hot, the fritters will not cook properly on the inside.

• Store leftover fritters in the fridge to enjoy for breakfast, brunch or lunch the next day.

• Don’t use tongs to turn your fritters; use a spatula and gently flip to prevent them from falling apart.

Studd siblings recommend: We love Aphrodite Barrel-Aged Feta

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Photo: Lauren Bamford

Whole baked cauliflower with comte and parmigiano sauce

There is something about seeing a whole baked cauliflower in its full, resplendent glory, rather than florets, that makes you automatically think, “I did gooood!”

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 large head of cauliflower (about 1kg)
  • 80g unsalted butter, softened
  • 4 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked
  • pinch of cayenne pepper finely grated
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
  • 20g (⅓ cup) panko breadcrumbs
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Comte and parmigiano sauce

  • 40g unsalted butter
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 2 tbsp plain flour
  • 500ml (2 cups) full-cream milk
  • 150g comte, grated
  • 90g parmigiano reggiano, grated
  • 1 tbsp creme fraiche
  • ¼ tsp smoked paprika
  • pinch of ground white pepper

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 200C fan-forced (220C conventional).
  2. Place the cauliflower in a saucepan large enough to cover it with a lid. Add enough boiling water to come 4cm up the side of the cauliflower, cover with the lid and place over high heat. Bring to the boil and cook for 10-12 minutes, until tender. Carefully remove the cauliflower using two large metal spoons and allow to cool for 10-15 minutes.
  3. Combine the butter, two-thirds of the thyme, the cayenne pepper and lemon zest in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Place the cauliflower in a snug-fitting ovenproof frying pan or small baking tray and rub with the butter mixture. Transfer to the oven and bake for 20 minutes.
  4. Meanwhile, to make the sauce, melt the butter with the garlic in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk to form a roux, then cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes, until it starts to smell biscuity.
  5. Add the milk gradually, whisking constantly to stop lumps forming, until you have a thick white sauce. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and gradually add the comte and two-thirds of the parmigiano reggiano. Mix until the cheese has melted and the sauce is smooth. Remove from the heat and stir through the creme fraiche, paprika and white pepper.
  6. Pour the sauce over the roasted cauliflower and sprinkle over the remaining parmigiano reggiano, thyme leaves and the panko breadcrumbs. Roast the cauliflower for another 10-12 minutes, until the breadcrumbs are golden and the sauce is bubbling.
  7. Carve up the cauliflower and serve with pilaf rice and your choice of steamed greens, or as part of a bigger spread.

Serves 4-6

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Studd siblings recommend: We love La Couronne Fort-Aged Comte and Cravero Parmigiano Reggiano. If you can’t find Comte, sub in any Alpine cheese.

Photo:

This is an edited extract from The Best Things in Life are Cheese by Ellie and Sam Studd, published by Plum, RRP $44.99. Photography by Lauren Bamford. Buy now

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/recipes/how-to-make-these-golden-crunchy-fluffy-japanese-style-halloumi-sandos-at-home-20231117-p5ekxf.html