WHERE AND WHAT

Wye River isn't the biggest town on the Great Ocean Road but it has the best cafe. Perched on a bend in the road with mountain and ocean views, the general store was saved from mediocrity in 2008 when Dave Sharry and Richie Ludbrook, the co-owners of Balaclava cafe Wall Two 80 and city bar Riverland, bought the joint and enlisted their usual collaborators, architects Six Degrees, to create this beach cafe and general store selling everything from newspapers to fruit, veg and deli goods.

WHERE TO SIT

The Wye General Store is blessed in the location department. From the wooden deck, you can eyeball the waves breaking on the sand across the way; parents can also keep an eye on any kids running around the playground without moving from their newspaper and cafe latte. Inside, the Six Degrees trademarks come into play - the floor is polished concrete, with recycled timber adding warmth, while light bulbs dangle from looped cord. Seating is at wooden tables with reclaimed school chairs - more comfortable than they sound.

WHEN TO GO

Winter trading hours mean it's a daytime option only - open daily from 8am for breakfast and lunch. The hours increase with the temperature.

DRINK

The coffee is Genovese but for the harder stuff, there's beer - including Asahi - on tap and a small wine list that takes in local and old-world drops by the glass.

EAT

Breakfast here is good, underpinned by the exceptional sourdough they bake themselves. The menu is pared back at the moment but it still covers some important bases: soups, pies, fish and chips, excellent crisp-based pizzas with well-judged toppings and Euro-influenced dishes - terrine or pickled white anchovies with romesco and charred sourdough might make an appearance on the specials list. There's a children's menu and desserts come from the pastry cabinet.

WHO'S THERE

The Wye has a monopoly on the market so it's a broad range of people, including swarms of Lycra-clad cyclists, who have embraced it as their favoured pit stop.

WHY BOTHER?

Like the rest of the Great Ocean Road, Wye River is overrun by holidaying hordes in summer but the misty off-season has a different feel. And when you're getting away from the maddening crowds, good coffee and good food are an absolute bonus.

Wye General Store and Cafe

35 Great Ocean Road, Wye River, phone 5289 0247,

wyerivergeneralstore.com.au