JAPANESE-born Tom Suzuki loves his fish, and it is a focus at this ripper little noshery. You will see him stationed at his ''sashimi bar'', a sectioned-off area of Shyun's bench, little bigger than a chopping board, preparing and slicing the day's cuts of sashimi.

He spent a few years at Footscray's Japanese-owned wholesaler Oceania Seafoods, and quality - but not ridiculously pricey - seafood is his MO.

Sashimi platters are top value, the ''regular'' with 10 fleshy pieces of salmon, kingfish, tuna, a little knob of wasabi and a few bits of crisp greenery. For this price (10 pieces for $8, 20 for $15) and in this lunchy, low-key setting it is an outright bargain. Chirashi, a spread of sashimi, seasonal white fish, scallops, calamari, eel, prawn and flying fish caviar on sushi rice is also a signature.

If you are an options person, the create-your-own bento is a joy - prettily plated, not in a box, each component grouped by price. Choose teriyaki ($3) - chicken, fish or tofu - the tofu silken, wobbly and deliciously coated in the sticky-sweet combo of sake, mirin and soy. Tempura ($4) is a loose, higgledy jumble of vegies bound by light, crunchy batter; and also on the plate is a fresh Japanese-style slaw, a stock potato salad with lots of mayo and white rice topped with fukujinzuke pickle.

Nasu dengaku ($6.50), a dome of eggplant that is deep-fried then steamed, is sauced with a rich miso sauce, the recipe based on Suzuki's home-town version in Nagoya. Be warned though, this dish is super-salty. Opt to add meat and a juicy scoop of minced pork sits on top, saucy with miso and a little chilli.

The staff is notably friendly, a smiley, helpful bunch for which nothing is too much trouble, and there is a lot of love for Shyun (pronounced ''shoon'').

It started life as a 10-seater and expanded to create room for 18 more - but it is still not big enough, and a back-room expansion for another 30 or so is scheduled to open in November.

Shyun is not groundbreaking, and the cramped fitout is nothing flash, but what it does do - above-standard Japanese classics and top-value seafood - it does very, very well.

Where 126 Koornang Road, Carnegie, 9569 6530

Prices Bento dishes, $3-$5; rice & noodles, lunches, $8-$11.50; cakes and slices, $2.50-$6.50

Cash only

Unlicensed Licence pending

Open Tues-Thurs, 11am-9pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-9pm; Sun, noon-9pm (closed 4-5pm weekdays)

Website shyun.net.au

Cuisine Japanese

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nrousseau@theage.com.au