As Melbourne's inner-city dining scene creeps steadily northwards, the Post Office is no longer on the fringe; its kitchen, however, continues to explore the frontiers of updated pan-Middle Eastern fare. Troy Payne, a protege of Greg Malouf, has designed a menu to share, taking inspiration from the Levant, Caucasus and North Africa and giving it contemporary expression. The manti (pert little Turkish dumplings) might marry the mild marine flavour of scallops with the tartness of barberries; the juicy lamb racks, stuffed with sweetbreads and sucuk (Turkish sausage) then rolled and roasted, might come with a 'gazpacho' of pistachio and mint; or an earthy tagine of wild mushrooms and chickpeas, sweetened with dates, might be offset by creamy 'stinging nettle yoghurt whip' and crunchy kataifi pastry. The dining room, with artfully exposed brickwork, metallic orange wallpaper, and bright, enthusiastic staff, manages to keep the atmosphere of the surrounding pub appropriately distant.