The world of fortified wines is a world unexplored by many wine drinkers, so obsessed are we with sparkling and table wines. Too often, we overlook wonderful things right under own noses. Call it familiarity breeding contempt. Fortified wines dominated Australia's early wine industry – they were labelled sherry (today, apera), port, and other sweet dessert styles such as liqueur tokay (today, topaque) and muscat. They're defined as wines with distilled spirit added to boost their alcoholic strength. The range is roughly 17 to 22 per cent alcohol, while table wines are around 10-15 per cent. So, a smaller glass is in order. They're great winter warmers.

Baileys of Glenrowan Founder Series Classic Muscat, $30/750ml

Score 93

The colour is deep brick-red with a tawny-yellow rim; the bouquet is a marvellous blend of long wood-aged complexities with younger, more aromatic muscat fruit. It's luscious in the mouth, intense and lingering, with freshness and vibrancy. The maturity tastes well beyond what we should expect at the price. A terrific muscat and amazing value. 17 per cent alcohol; Vinolok glass stopper.

Ageing? No need; it's ready to drink.

Stockists include 03 5766 1600, baileysofglenrowan.com/contact-us/

Mitchell Harris Blanc #1 by The Maker, the Muse and the Alchemist (February 2020 bottling), Pyrenees, $30/500ml

Score 92

This unusual fortified, wood-aged sauvignon blanc is full, bright yellow in colour and smells of toasted almonds and cashews, candied lemon peel too, while the palate is intense and piercing, thanks to alcohol as well as fruit and acid, the finish long and pleasantly dry after the considerable sweetness. There's a subtle oak-matured character. Alcohol resonates on the long follow-through. 17.8 per cent alcohol; diam.

Ageing? No, it's ready to drink.

Stockist mitchellharris.com.au

Morris Old Premium Rare Tawny, Rutherglen, $90/500ml

Score 96

The colour is tawny-amber with orange tints; the bouquet is very mellow and aged, tremendously complex and alluring, the palate exceedingly complex and rich, powerful and long, with a drying finish that prepares the mouth for another sip. Great harmony and elegance, a sublime old tawny style. 20 per cent alcohol; screw-cap.

Ageing? No, it's already mature.

Stockists include casellacellar.com and Dan Murphy's