Westwood

With light bases and pared-back toppings, Westwood is the cream of the city's new crop. Flour comes from Gunnedah, the oven burns ironbark and the menu is kept to all-stars and specials: marinara, say, that hits hard, or spanner crab sauced with XO. But it's the garlic and honey that's fast-become a signature. Expect two things: to wait, and it to be worth it.

245 Australia Street, Newtown, 0466 181 266, westwoodpizza.com.au

Ria Pizza + Wine

Pizza by Brent Savage was never going to be straightforward. A deck oven gives an even finish to a puffy-edged sourdough base and toppings feature the likes of saltbush, octopus and mustard leaves. Those fat crusts? Dip them into whipped bottarga or parmesan custard, or add caviar to your pie. A red-sauce joint this is not, but if consistency is your jam, this is the place.

71A Macleay Street, Potts Point, 02 8080 9640, riapizza.com.au

CicciaBella Parramatta

"Not Roman, not Neapolitan, not New York, not New Jersey, not Detroit!" screams Maurice Terzini about the pizza at Parramatta's CicciaBella, instead citing the Italian immigrants of the '60s and '70s as inspiration for what he calls Zia Romilda's garage pizza. Served as a slice or slab, it's square-edged and crusty, with classic toppings including a caper-anchovy-olive number and eggplant with parmesan.

Parramatta Square, 153 Macquarie Street, Parramatta, 02 8090 6979, cicciabella.com.au

Dimitri's

Dimitri's has a next-generation sense about it. Drinks are fervently lo-fi, and the pizza skips tradition to focus on flavour. Dough is a mix of Australian and Italian flours, and toppings might see 'nduja paired with anchovies or sopressa drizzled with honey. Specials abound, and there's a strong vegetarian offer – think rocket with buttermilk ricotta or Jerusalem artichoke with kale.

215 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst, 02 8068 4247, dimitrispizzeria.com

Pizza Fritta 180

Pizza Fritta, Via Napoli founder Luigi Esposito's ode to the storied street-food of Naples, specialises in its namesake, sealing dough around ingredients you'd usually see as toppings, then flash-frying the thing until crisp and golden. A classica comes stuffed with provola, ricotta and pepper, while others may feature guanciale, mortadella or zucchini flowers. The upshot? One seriously hot pocket.

428 Crown Street, Surry Hills, 02 9197 0890, pizzafritta180.com.au

Frankie's Pizza By The Slice

With a menu Dan Pepperell cooked up after a New York pizza excursion, the new Frankie's offers sturdier bases topped with extra interesting things. Give the mortadella and stracciatella a go, or a tomato number with capers, oregano and nutritional yeast. Drape your own anchovies on, then dip the crusts in "Frankie's Red Hot Ranch" to finish. Just get in quick; they shut shop mid-year.

50 Hunter Street, Sydney, frankiespizzabytheslice.com

Gigi

Gigi's is that rare thing, a restaurant maintaining its tick of approval from the AVPN while rocking an entirely vegan menu. Count on wood-fired pizze with a proper cornicione and toppings given real thought. Cauliflower puree becomes a white base; ricotta is made with nuts; and Beyond Sausage graces the salsiccia e broccoli. Oh, and don't skimp on the chilli oil.

379 King Street, Newtown, 02 9557 2224, gigipizzeria.com.au

Matteo

Orazio D'Elia does far more than pizza at both his CBD and Double Bay locations, but it's the pies that consistently steal the show. Wood-fired, crisp-edged and soft-centred, they're made for classicists, as are toppings that play the hits – diavola, Napoletana, Siciliana. It's not all old-school, either – pork ragu pizza, anyone?

29 Bay Street, Double Bay, 02 9327 8015, matteosydney.com

Bella Brutta

With bubbling, blistered bases bolstered by Luke Powell's own brand of meats (the pepperoni, pork sausage and mortadella all come from LP's) Bella Brutta already starts a step ahead. Add specials that range from XO prawn to mushroom with truffle salsa, next-level snacks and classic Italian desserts done right and it's a package deal. Oh, and don't forget about that surf-clam pizza, either.

135 King Street, Newtown, 02 9922 5941, bellabrutta.com.au

My Mother's Cousin

Pushing thin New York-style bases and a local twist on toppings, MMC is shaking up the pizza game in the south. Hot honey can be drizzled over pepperoni, Margherita or 'nduja and sopressa pies, while smoked scamorza, fermented chilli and gremolata grace other bases. Most excellent, though, is the added focus on chicken wings and a dessert riffing on the McDonald's apple pie. Win.

9 Shaw Street, Bexley North, 0410 913 335, mymotherscousin.com.au