Every year, a group of winemakers, MWs (Masters of Wine) and growers converge on a restaurant in South Australia and crack open dozens of bottles of barbera from Italy (the varietal's homeland), South Africa and the US. The motley crew call themselves the "Barberians" and their aim is simple – to share, discuss, taste and benchmark Australia's representations of the variety against imported examples.

Barbera is a grape known for its deep purple colour, relatively light-bodied stature and juicy qualities (a bit like nebbiolo, dolcetto, and bright examples of merlot). It is well-suited to Australia's cool-climate regions because the cool nights retain freshness, while warm days allow full ripeness and gorgeous fruit flavours.

The red grape's heritage dates back the 11th century, where it grew in the shadows of a cathedral in Monferrato, Piedmont. Expect to see more of it as Australian winemakers continue to play.

XO Wine Co 2021 Small Batch Barbera, Adelaide Hills, $32

This wine was voted top wine at the Adelaide International Barbera Challenge. Winemaker Greg Clack uses fruit from Kuitpo in the Adelaide Hills to create this juicy, bouncy number. It's so friendly. Whack it on the dinner table with tomato-based dishes, lamb, or pork belly (the mouth-watering acid cuts through the fat) for a convivial night with pals. It's nice chilled a little, too. 14 per cent alcohol.

Find it at xowineco.com.au

Queen of the Sierra 2018 Red, US, $35

California winemaker Matthew Rorick works with obscure and interesting varieties using minimal intervention and no chemicals. His edgy barbera is oh so slurpy – think tart red fruit and head-snapping energy. It's quite the party starter and can be enjoyed with or without food. It's in limited supply in Australia so act fast. 12.6 per cent alcohol.

Find it at differentdrop.com

Billy Button 2021 The Affable Barbera, Alpine Valleys, Vic, $32

Such a fitting name for a deeply friendly wine. Winemaker Jo Marsh is well respected for her forays into emerging varieties (check out her website; the choice is dizzying). This is stunning example of precision, earthy flavours and texture. It'll impress everyone at the dinner table – even nanna and gramps. 14 per cent alcohol.

Find it at billybuttonwines.com.au