Why Canberra needs to be on your travel bucket list in 2024
It’s been well over 15 years since I found myself in this corner of the country, and what I discovered will have me coming back again and again.
It had been a good 15 years – maybe longer – since I’d rattled along the Hume and onto the Federal Highway en route to our nation’s capital.
The last time I’d ventured across the border and into Canberra, I was, like most schoolkids of that time, whisked through Questacon before being paced in and out of Parliament House both old and new.
But on a recent wintry weekend, where the thermometer dipped below zero and ice frosted lone puddles alongside Lake Burley Griffin – I witnessed a fresh side of the Bush Capital that will have me coming back again and again.
Where to stay
Just like both Sydney and Melbourne properties, a stay at Canberra’s Ovolo Nishi will not disappoint. Upon entry, you’re greeted with a cascading timber staircase up to a moody foyer just waiting to be explored and enjoyed.
Nishi is the perfect base to explore the city and beyond, with everything you need under one roof. The hotel itself only occupies several floors, making the experience intimate and exclusive.
I stayed in one of the hotel’s Meandering Atrium suites, which has more space than you will know what to do with.
The hallway leads past a small minibar area that’s decked out with cocktails and snacks, and in to the wider living area and combined bedroom.
The lighting and decor is moody, creating a cosy environment at any time of day. There’s not a lot of natural light, and while that would normally send me in to a spin — it fitted the vibe of the hotel perfectly.
With a comfy king bed centred in the room and a small sitting area to the wing, the room’s standout feature is definitely the oversized bathroom and twin tub.
With enough room for two adults to lounge side-by-side, the bathtub alone had me kicking back for hours while the cold snap that gripped Canberra on this particular weekend whirled outside.
And with the hotel’s eatery Monster just one floor down\, you can literally go from robe to restaurant in a matter of footsteps.
Dishing up vegetarian fare with tables surrounding a circular fireplace, the menu is locally sourced and uses seasonal ingredients. Similar to the Monster’s sister restaurant at Ovolo Woolloomooloo, don’t let the vegetable aspect scare off any meat-eaters … because the food is delicious, plentiful and full of flavour.
The hotel is in the perfect position for all your adventures around the city – and there’s even bikes on loan if you want to scoot around Lake Burley Griffin over the road rather than on foot.
A library at the base of the building has a range of books for both young and old (my toddler loved our post-breakfast story by the fire each morning) – and there’s even a salon if you’re in the mood for a fresh cut or blow-dry.
Places to dine
The biggest surprise (and I don’t know why it was a surprise given Canberra hosts some of the world’s most powerful people) but there’s no shortage of places to eat morning, noon and night.
Start your day off with perhaps the best bacon and egg roll in town at Mocan and Green Grout. For something a little more hearty that will warm the soul, you can’t go past their Baked Eggs with chickpeas, tomato, chèvre & sourdough.
Canberra is a little hidden gem for craft breweries, with one of the most famed being Capital Brewing Co.
Located in the very cool Dairy Road Precinct, slip in for a pint and make room for one of the mammoth Brodburger’s flipped on site. And when I say make room, I mean it — with some of these easily the size of your head.
I went for the cheeseburger – which hands down was one of the best I have tried, while my partner launched into the Deluxe (and didn’t even nearly finish it).
For dinner, make your way to a hidden nook of the city that has a quaint village vibe about it. Known as The Inn at Edgars, you’ve got a more casual pub-style vibe downstairs, while upstairs is a more fine dining experience.
Sitting surrounded by a few small shops in Ainslie, The Inn is clearly a local favourite. As I skim the menu for the first time, I hear tables around me asking for their usual order while sharing a laugh with the waitstaff and even executive chef Wayne Alger.
Serving up Modern Australian cuisine off the Asado Grill, Alger has created a space that is refined and cosy with a hearty menu of quality, locally sourced ingredients to match.
Start the night off with a serving of the Mooloolaba scallop swimming in shellfish butter and vadouvan. Then, you won’t be disappointed by the pumpkin and tofu dumplings — perhaps my standout dish of the night.
For something a little more substantial, the charcoal rainbow trout with beurre blanc, fennel and dill is not only impressive in taste but also on the plate.
Things to do
An absolute hidden delight was being within 40 minutes of a pretty decent little snowfield. If you’ve got little ones and don’t have the deep pockets needed for some of Australia; s biggest ski field – this secret spot will do the tricky perfectly.
We had a toddler in tow, so even a bucket of snow would have her delighted – but Corin Forest Alpine Resort put on far more than expected.
For $75, you are fully kitted out with everything you need for a few hours in the snow – as well as a toboggan for some downhill racing.
Crossing creeks and winding through bushland, the scenery out there is a complete contrast from the city, with countryside stretching as far as the eye can see.
Closer to town, Canberra is home to a mountain of galleries and museums. But throughout the winter period, a real standout has just opened at the National Gallery.
Running from late June until early October, the winter exhibition titled Gauguin’s World: Tōna Iho, Tōna Ao is described as “the most ambitious and largest collection of Gauguin’s works ever to be shown in Australia”.
And even if you’re familiar with the work, this landmark exhibition really is a once in a lifetime experience with over 140 works of art on show including ceramics and carvings loaned from over 65 public and private collections worldwide.
If a visit to the gallery invigorates your inner artist, make sure to check out Canberra Glassworks and have a crack at blowing your own vase or vessel.
As Australia’s only professional art space dedicated entirely to contemporary glass, art, craft and design, the building (Kingston Power House) is a sight in itself.
Classes run for about 40 minutes, and you’ll have a chance to learn what it takes to melt down glass and mould into a cute piece to take home.
The one-on-one workshop is well worth it (but be warned, they book out quickly) and a complete eye-opener into the world of glasswork using blowing techniques with kilns firing at 810 degrees. And if you’re in town over a weekend, be sure to pop next door and check out the Old Bus Depot Markets for some local knick-knacks and delicious street food.
Finally, if you have an afternoon free and want to get out onto the land and scouring for some ‘black gold’ – Canberra is definitely the place to do it.
Truffle season is in full swing, and there’s no better way to have a taste of what it’s like to find the little nuggets under the ground, but also have them dished up as part of a delicious degustation on site.
The Truffle Farm is an easy 15 minute drive from the CBD, nestled in the serene Majura Valley. Surrounded by rolling hills, an oak tree forest and stunning views of Mount Majura Winery – the property presents a unique experience to experience what goes in to paddock to plate style dining.
Upon arrival, you’ll be greeted by owner Jayson Mesman and a glass of cold champagne, before learning a little about the property and art of truffle hunting.
Then, it’s time to rug up, unleash the hounds, and head out to do some digging!
Interactive and educational, there’s a real thrill when you strike ‘gold’ – and an even bigger kick when you get to taste some of the flavours the black truffle.
The degustation takes guests on a culinary journey of dishes prepared by executive chef Kanarith Kim (ex-Quay). You’ll be rolling off the property – and perhaps with a new found taste for the black truffle.
This journalist travelled to Canberra as a guest of Visit Canberra.