The cheap island paradise that beats Bali every time

Dreaming of a tropical, Balinese beach holiday? We can go one better. A 7am flight can have you on this little island paradise by lunchtime.

A trip for Aussies to Bali has almost become a rite of passage and it was Tim Costello who last month controversially suggested that many Australians now even consider it a “fundamental human right.”

But for a lot of us, we’ve finally reached a tipping point with Bali.

Thankfully, a viable alternative even closer to Australia has emerged this month to help fill the overseas beach holiday void for Bali-obsessed Aussies.

Vanuatu is an archipelago with empty, white sandy beaches and pristine coral reefs which span more than 80 islands and Air Vanuatu are now offering a ridiculously affordable direct route between Melbourne and the capital, Port Vila.

The 4-hour flight departs at 7am, three times a week and has you on the beach with sand between your toes by lunchtime.

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Colours above Port Vila. Picture: Lauren Bath.

Lunch with a view at Rockwater Resort. Picture: Supplied.

Bali has mostly landed on our holiday hit list out of convenience, not for the beaches. We’ve all seen the video of the scuba diver moving through a sea of plastic bags and straws.

And while its beaches have deteriorated, it’s now become the norm to spend your entire holiday confined to a private villa with a plunge pool while you pay AU$14 for mediocre cocktails and get drunk in the background of an Instagram model’s photoshoot.

In Vanuatu, we can all still rejoice in the option of a luxury private villa; but how about a villa that’s got its own beach on the private island of Ratua, instead of one sandwiched in the middle of a Seminyak laneway?

Overwater bungalows are a honeymooner's paradise. Picture: Supplied.

Beyond the accommodation, the Islands of Vanuatu offer an unmatched rawness and a variety of adventure activities, both in and out of the water, that you just can’t get anywhere else.

Then there’s the blue holes. This story is impossible to tell without mentioning the blue holes.

If Vanuatu was a crown, the jewels would be these pristine freshwater playgrounds which quite literally emerge from the middle of the jungle undergrowth and are usually surrounded by thick banyan trees and rope swings.

While Vanuatu is a little more expensive than its South Pacific neighbours, no longer are the islands just the paradise of the rich and famous.

The country has matured beyond the all-inclusive resort offerings on the main island of Efate, and the local government is working overtime to open up access to the outer islands where there are bargains and adventures aplenty.

It’s on the islands of both Tanna and Espiritu Santo where the real Vanuatu starts to show it’s face. And you can live like kings and queens on a private island, or tuck yourself away in a thatched beach bungalow where everyday feels like you’ve been shipwrecked.

But if you do prefer the misty jungle and bird calls of Ubud in Bali, why not spend the night in a treehouse with unobstructed views of a fiery volcano at Tanna Treetop Lodge?

Banyan trees in Tanna. Picture: We Are Explorers.

Wherever you choose to visit in Vanuatu, the real magic is that you’re not made to feel like a tourist here.

Tipping is non-existent and haggling is considered rude. Instead, get lost in the never ending smiles and waves from children as friendly local Ni-Vanuatu consistently make you feel like a long-lost friend.

If it’s a family holiday, a honeymoon, a thrillseeking adventure or paradise you’re searching for in your next Bali alternative, here’s how a first timer can best navigate the New Vanuatu.

The markets in Tanna. Picture: Supplied.

EFATE ISLAND

The capital of Port Vila on Efate is where most people will start, but shy of a few noteworthy family hotels and restaurants including the Holiday Inn, Stonegrill and K2 Cafe, get out of Vila like you would get out of Dodge.

In the morning, head for the hills to the Vanuatu Jungle Zipline where you’ll sail across canyons in a harness at speeds of up to 50km/h

For lunch, also try the chic, east coast resort of Tamanu on the Beach which operates one of the best restaurants on the island.

On your way there, cool off in the locally operated Rarru cascades, where kids can jump safely from ledges and swim in the shallow pools beneath a set of roaring waterfalls.

Efate from above. Picture: Lauren Bath.

TANNA ISLAND

Tanna is an adventure paradise where your first encounter with its notorious remoteness will be on the back of a ute straight out of the airport. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a chance to sit on a makeshift seat haphazardly bolted to the tray. Be prepared, the roads in Tanna are worse than bad.

A thick layer of ash coats just about any hard surface here as the island is constantly under assault from Vanuatu’s most accessible, active volcano, Mount Yasur.

The ash plains in Tanna. Picture: We Are Explorers

For most visitors to Tanna, the journey to the top of Mount Yasur is the undeniable highlight as your 4WD first sails across the desolate Siwi Ash Plain like you’re traversing the surface of the moon.

Once you reach the base of Yasur’s crater, the walk up takes just a few minutes and you hear the roar of the lava pool before you see it. Sulphur plumes assault every sense and on a clear night, as dusk arrives, the iridescent red glow fills the night sky while explosions throw flames and rock hundreds of metres into the air.

Finally, if you’ve got a bucket list, Tanna’s Blue Cave needs to be on it. A 40-minute boat trip from Whitegrass Resort will bring you to a narrow swim through where a waiting guide will be treading water. He will ask you to take a deep breath before emerging into a natural sea colosseum perfectly lit by a shaft of light entering from the jungle above.

Tnana's Blue Cave is one of wonders. Picture: David Kirkland

ESPIRITU SANTO ISLAND

Santo is for lovers and its idyllic East Coast and private islands stretch into the Coral Sea like a series of postcards.

An East Coast tour with a local taxi driver is the best way to explore Santo and starts at about AUD$90 for the full day.

The tour will see you stopping at both Matuevula and Nanda Blue Holes as well as the remote northern township of Port Olry, where the national delicacy of grilled Poulet Fish on the beach is only interrupted by a group of swimming foals and lunchtime soccer games with happy local kids.

The writer was a guest of Vanuatu Tourism and Air Vanuatu.

Jeremy Drake is a freelance travel journalist. Continue the conversation | @jezdrake