Beyond Bali: Find secluded beaches and solitude on the unspoilt Nusa Islands

Looking for a dose of Bali minus the crowds? It’s time to put this spot on your radar with unspoilt beaches, crystal-clear seas and fewer crowds.

It is still possible to find deserted beaches and solitude in Bali.

Dreaming of a Bali getaway? Years of development and ever-increasing visitors have seen the once sleepy paradise lose some of its lustre, but you can find deserted beaches and solitude.

Introducing the Nusas (islands): Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan, and Nusa Penida. This trio of idyllic isles offers unspoilt beaches, crystal-clear seas, lagoons, cliffs and, best of all, minimal crowds.

Here’s what to see, eat and do.

NUSA LEMBONGAN

A gateway for all three islands, Lembongan’s beautiful bays, beaches and limestone cliffs are reached from the Bali port of Sanur. The cheaper (and uncomfortable) slow boat takes more than an hour. The fast boat services take half that time, and only cost about $12 more.

Devil’s Tears is the most popular attraction. This natural rock plateau is breathtaking. The best sunset spot (thanks to reflective tidal pools), it’s busy during the golden hour. Another top attraction is the mangrove forest. You can rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard to explore, or join a guided boat tour.

NUSA CENINGAN

Connected by the small, yellow “love bridge”, Ceningan, the smallest island, is a stone’s throw from Lembongan. Nestled between Penida and Lembongan, and crossable by foot or scooter, you can cover its main sights in a day. One must-visit is the Blue Lagoon – a rocky cove of bright blue water. There’s nearby cliff jumping for the foolhardy.

One of Nusa Ceningan’s must-see sights is the bright blue water of Blue Lagoon.

NUSA PENIDA

A 10-minute boat ride from Lembongan, the largest of the Nusas, Penida, is the least developed island, and local life here remains largely unaltered. See this in the underground Goa Giri Putri temple. This limestone cave temple is used daily for religious ceremonies. Visitors will need to don a sarong and squeeze through a tiny entrance to descend into the mammoth subterranean temple. Visit independently or on a package with Lembongan Holiday tours.

Penida is also one of the world’s best places to see sunfish (they reach more than 2m in length) and manta rays. Blue Corner Dive has diving and snorkelling trips in the Penida Marine Protection Area. Another essential is Angel’s Billabong, a clear tidal pool that cascades into the ocean. Check tides first.

Nusa Penida is also one of the world’s best places to see sunfish.

BEST TIME TO GO TO NUSA ISLANDS

Bali is balmy year-round. The rainy season runs October to March with heaviest falls December to February. Tourism peaks around Christmas holidays. The dry season is April to October and is cooler and more pleasant.

DONE BALI? IT’S TIME TO DO NUSA LEMBONGAN

TOP ALTERNATIVES TO WORLD’S MOST CROWDED DESTINATIONS

GETTING AROUND THE NUSA ISLANDS

There are virtually no cars on Lembongan, but it is only 4km end to end, and there are coastal paths that link waterfront accommodation. Most restaurants offer free pick-up and drop-off services. If you plan to explore, especially around Ceningan, hire a motorbike or scooter. The roads have potholes and many are steep, so always wear a helmet and check your travel insurance. Similarly in Penida, scooters and bikes are the only practical way to get around, unless you hire a car and driver.

NUSA ISLANDS ACCOMMODATION

It makes sense to use Lembongan as a base. The tiered hillside resort of Batu Karang Lembongan Resort & Day Spa is fresh from a makeover and expansion. It offers ocean views from most rooms. There are three pools (one adults only), day beds, deep in-room bathtubs or private plunge pools and on-site Lulur Spa.

The Frangipani Villa Bathroom at Batu Karang Lembongan Resort & Day Spa.

BEST NUSA ISLANDS RESTAURANTS AND BARS

For healthy organic meals and dazzling water views, you can’t go past The Deck Cafe & Bar, perched above the shore on Nusa Lembongan. It’s the only place on the island with beer on tap. Just across from The Deck is the alfresco Thai Pantry, with a small, excellent menu and elaborate cocktails from an Instagrammable Kombi-van-cum-bar by the water.

Thai Pantry has an excellent menu and elaborate cocktails.

BEST NUSA ISLANDS BEACHES

Secret Beach, Ceningan, is more of a rocky cove, but still beautiful. Bordered by cliffs and jungle, it has white sand, turquoise waters and picturesque views. There’s a resort for snacks.

Dream Beach, Lembongan, is the island’s most popular – a stretch of sand enclosed by cliffs, with bars and hotels on hand.

Getting to the gorgeous white sand of Kelingking Secret Point, Penida, requires a scramble down a rocky cliff, so perhaps just enjoy the Insta-worthy view from the top.

Broken Beach, also at Penida, has a natural cliff arch opening to the ocean. There’s no way down for a dip, but it’s breathtaking just to see.

Getting to the gorgeous white sand of Kelingking Secret Point requires a scramble down a rocky cliff.

BEST NUSA ISLANDS SURFING SPOTS

While there’s a left-hand point break at Ceningan’s Secret Point, the best breaks (but the most crowded) are on Lembongan. Lacerations and Shipwreck on the west coast are as nerve-racking as their names so, if not a pro, try the more friendly Playgrounds. There are plenty of surf schools in Jungut Batu.

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