Hike the Murray River Walk, South Australia

Heather McNaughton has lived in the Riverland region for more than 30 years and is a guide on Murray River Trails’ four-day Murray River Walk.

.

In partnership with Tourism Australia.

Swimming emus, shy echidnas and tree-climbing goannas; a spectacular diversity of flora; the smell of the ground and air after rain; the feel of the clay, soft leaf litter, and sand under your feet; all make the Murray River Walk an unforgettable experience.

I first came to the Riverland in 1982 to live on a sheep station north of Renmark.

The sheer size of the Murray River and its tributaries, plus the fact that it travels through very dry country, is a source of wonderment and awe for me.

Heather McNaughton has lived in the Riverland region for more than 30 years. She is a guide on the Murray River Trails’ four-day Murray River Walk. Picture Supplied

Walking through spectacular forests alongside the river, creeks and oxbow lakes gives you a unique insight into the size, scope and slow flow of this old river system.

The outlook changes at every turn, so there is always something different to appreciate.

The Erawirung people were the first Aboriginal people of this region, and evidence of their culture is everywhere; in the old fireplaces, shell middens, and on the scar trees, from which bark would be taken to make shields and canoes.

We acknowledge their culture as we walk.

Murray River Walk. Calperum Station. Picture: Great Walks of Australia/Kirk Owers

Depending on which part of the land we’re on, the flora changes.

On the river and creek banks we see river red gums, black box, acacias and lignum; and in spring, showy daisies and wildflowers bloom.

On the flood plains there is saltbush, bluebush and pigface, which flowers in spring forming vast pink carpets. On the higher sandy terrain there are native pines, mallee eucalypt forests, hakeas and eremophila and, after good rains we see a massive outburst of spectacular white rain lilies.

We always walk beside a waterway – the river itself, creeks, oxbows, flood-plain or ephemeral waterholes.

Each provides a different experience.

As we walk, we encounter red and grey kangaroos and euros, and in spring, striped emu chicks are a delightful sight.

Pelicans, whistling kites, cormorants, waders, Australasian darters, black swans, egrets, a variety of ducks, red-capped robins and parrots are all common bird sightings.

Murray River Walk. Pelicans at Calperum Station. Picture: Great Walks of Australia/Kirk Owers

We usually count 50-plus bird species on a four-day tour.

At the end of each day, the houseboat is waiting to welcome us with the creature comforts of a luxury lodge.

We unpack once and keep the same room for the whole tour, but the view from the bedroom window changes each day.

Resting on a houseboat after a day’s walking allows us to connect to the serene river environment and revel in the sounds of sunset birdsong, from whistling kites to kookaburras.

Be prepared for the magic to start all over again in the morning as you awaken to the sight of a pelican gliding through the rising
river mist at sunrise.

A houseboat on Murray River at Renmark, SA. Picture: Rob Greenwood

NEED TO KNOW

• The Murray River Walk takes four days, covering 12-14km each day, over a relatively flat landscape, with some short gentle climbs. Walking poles are available;

• Group size is up to 10 people;

• Tours operate in the cooler months from May to September;

• The tour starts in Renmark, 3 hours drive north east of Adelaide, SA, or 1.5 hours drive west from Mildura, Vic;

• Murray River Trails supports local South Australian producers;

• The menu features native ingredients and Riverland wines.